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Wow, Thanks to ODdave I did some digging and came across this thread and the post above. Almost 4 years later I still have the M715 (still painted red) AND a 5ton tractor AND a bobbed deuce (currently for sale) and several trailers a shelter and a garage cluttered with OD green parts. Still...

I wish there was a place like that around here that I could volunteer some time and labor to. I'd love to get to climb over stuff like that. (sand blasting and replacing parts)

:ditto: Thats part of the plan, I just negleted to mention it. I noticed how the shaft kind of flopped around on the truck I removed the hubs from. For now I still plan to put bushings in them for ease of mind.

No worries, calm waters are boring after awhile, Just don't flip the boat.

Rumor is that they won't fit over the drums on a 105. (Haven't personally confirmed this, Just a rumor I heard when I asked at the salvage yard about a couple of wheels)

Is this bushing needed in the 5ton? (M809 series, non CTIS) I had planned on getting bushings but If its not needed thats one less thing to pay for.

:ditto:

:shock: Thats alot of leverage on those bearings. I'm lost as to what you need to do. You say your hubs are already flipped and your rear tires are still 11" less in trackwidth with your fronts? If you flip the hubs out (from the stock location) and run the wheels the same as the fronts, they...

Take the broken shear pin out. Cut it in half, put a wooden dowel inside the shaft and reinstall the two halfs so the still engage the yolk half of the drive shaft. Then you can back it off. Should be able to just put it in reverse and back it off just enough to take the tension out and get the...

Ummm, not really. He's good to go. He gave an explanation (discussion ) about what happened and asked why it did what it did when he screwed it in. Its the, "hey, I need a rim, whos got one?", one line posts that will getyou in trouble. To the OP, if I had one I'd send it to you but sorry...

If you only do one side you'll be spinning the spider gears alot more than they would normally see and cause exessive wear in those. I picked up a pair of fronts off 5ton last time I was down at Glens (91w350) to do just this same thing.

How loud is it in the cab at highway speeds straight-piped?

Not sure about the rest of the body but the grill is not from anything around '41. Ask the seller if he has pics of any data plates on the dash.

Got alittle work done this past weekend. I think with just a little bit of cutting on the bottom lip of the cab and on the splash guard under the fender I can get the exhaust to work. It will take some custom exhaust work to get the piping from one end to the other but not much.

Budd capps and lug nuts will get you dual wheels. Might check to see if the hubs and bearings off a M200 will work on a 105 to get true duals without tearing up the 105 wheelbearings.

What's busted on this one?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/conversations/81014-gl-selling-govdeals-now.html I'm on here daily also, (usually multiple time a day) and I miss probably 50% of the stuff that goes on.

Are you driving it? or just working on it for hours with the motor running? If your driving it I suggest you find the source of the air leak before you drive it. That buzzer is there for a reason. If its constantly going off you have a sizable leak somewhere. Otherwise just unplug it, it's up...

The only reason it may be offensive to some is because the way you worded it, it sounds like your asking about an upcoming auction. That is a no-no around here. Instead of asking about the 100's coming up at GL, you should have just asked what type of MV equipment used a 8V92 and if it was...

(your first paragraph) Thats my point.To some people, once one person that owns and drives a MV does something that bothers them or does something "because this is a free country and I can do what I want" and it p**ses them off, they will often brand "all" MV owner/operators the same, even...