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Last I heard military has been going with OPTIMA yellow tops - size D34, - and you CAN find the plastic adapters to fit the tray for the 6TLs (6LT? Whatever, the big square ones), just be careful with the clamp and avoid shorting out terminals (you'll see). That's about 1600 CCAs, IIRC...
next time I'll do that.
I'd also redo the spokes in OD green, something closer to CARC green; it's foliage green, something I had on-hand.
Not bad for a first-time effort.
Thanks for the tips and encouragement.
Kind of reminds me of a guy I knew years ago in Bavaria who road his Harley...
I just realized this morning that my pics uploaded from tapatalk aren't really uploaded, but linked.
Thanks for the reminder, and the update/upgrade.
NB
"Went back to starter switch and now it all works."
Meaning?
Starter switch is bad? Loose wire?
When you DO install the cutoff switch, check all the large battery wires for corrosion at the terminals. I had one that was being held on by the heat-shrink alone, as have several other people...
Came out okay. Coulda shoulda practiced on the spoke overlapping in black, but it feels okay. I had 24 ft of black line left.
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I replaced the speedometer and fuel gauge. Fuel gauge 'cause I'd replaced the sender and the gauge took this opportunity to start acting up. Showed 1/4 tank with 15 gallons filled. Now shows over 1/2 tank and I've driven about 30 miles on the 15 gallons, so, closer.
Speedometer (thanks...
Finally got around to hooking up my "air conditioning."
Of course I used rivnuts (8-32) in the deck (had some screws left over from installing the high-back seats), power "block" is some 100A marine product, blue seas or something like that. Ground switch disconnects power from truck.
Also...
JUst got mine hooked up today:
I used rivnuts to connect to the radio deck. Thinking about putting a basket in the middle to hold stuff like gloves, flashlight.
Had same thing happened to me with mine six months ago.
Ignition switch had a bad lead. fixed temporarily then bought some new packard connectors.
Like Tobash said, start simple.
Number, Stock, National.
:whistle:
Actually National Stock Number: NSN.
Good site for parts you might consider is NSN-now.com. It gives you a list of who has the part listed, but you have to look up their site on your own.
Good luck, welcome to the madness.
Norm
Pretty sure they're 3/8-16 at the transmission end, I just replaced these. Not sure about the stud end into the TC itself.
Start with parts manual - book 1, 24P-1 - find part number, check over at Kascar or HPG one of them gives the actual thread pitch/size for the nuts.
I bought the tank and transfer case protectors and used the rubber insulators for the fuel tank anyway, placing them between the plate and tank. Plate rattles against front and back a bit; I used some scrap from floor padding with 3M weatherstrip adhesive to attach. YMMV.
Glad I saw this, as...
Interesting, while looking for something else I found this:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?20142-HMMWV-6-2L-vs-CUCV-M108-6-2L&highlight=harmonic+balancer
From a decade ago.
Looks doable.
New GPs, maybe use same IP for a while (or sell as rebuilt), change oil pan/gaskets. If...
Just went through this a month or so ago.
Ordered (with help from online parts seller) one and it was TOO LONG.
There are TWO different u-joints, the apparent difference being the length from cap to cap. 3.219" was right for mine (caps are 1.062" diameter)
Wound up using this...
Found and acronym finder site that says "With Equipment" but W/E isn't an acronym.
Can also mean What/Ever, or Week/End, which is what owning one of these takes up a lot of.
Reason I ask, like I said, is it SEEMS like it would work.
I've also read several posts about swapping engines - I know about the wiring harness bit.
I'll stay with the 6.2L for that and other reasons, mostly because the price is right for the one I'm looking at and I can take some time with...
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