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That's correct.

Thank you for the educated info. When I started reading into RV solar systems (have a victron system) it was amazing the number of uneducated, unscientific group think is out there. The whole ferrule, lugs, crimping discussions are other areas of claims with no data.

Run away. These kinds of things are a bad idea. Not positive about 3126, but c7 you can load a map up to 370hp.

Agreed, looks in decent shape (no telling about inside though)

You can't (shouldn't really) try to replace the studs. They are epoxied in and custom (stepped with different threads. I got a new one on ebay and some others have had good luck with the seller. Just search for 76761-N2003 and you'll see the $200 listing.

I'm almost positive its 40F, I saw this documented in the manuals some where but can't find it right now. I'm in WI and got to experience this a lot last winter as well. It certainly works well too, when it gets cold enough to use ether the truck starts up very quickly.

I found a screwdriver worked great. You need to know what you're doing and work the seal in but it worked better than the seal driver I had (don't have a press)

I saw that ...now I'm looking at making some drive shaft hoops.

I would keep it. The ether in the A1r is used at about 40f and below. Your truck will not turn on the grid heater prior to truck start when it is planning to use ether. So even with a block heater....good luck. I would do whatever you can to keep it as we don't have manual control of ether/grid...

Glad I maxed out the storage boxes. Tow bar pieces just barely fit.

Got a tow bar, may try to flat tow an Xterra behind truck. Found documents saying this was the only "approved bar". Wanted the aluminum ibis one but saw too many failures. Had to grind a little material off for the adapters to fit... guessing that's why they were sold to civilian market.

My vent line was also open and folded over. 07 A1R What about the two lines after the water separator and before the return?

I've never seen a spec for flatness? I really dislike the engineering design of this part...should be separated.

Really wonder how much of an issue this is with the cooler decking. The bolts supply enormous amount of force to flatten that piece. Seems a tightening method starting with the center bolts would be the smartest considering how these things flex. Also why do they flex where there are inherent...

I have a 370hp spare ECM loaded with all my injectors, trims just haven't tried it yet. Worked on the doors, lubricated the hinges and the spring stop slide things. Too the panels off and lubricated everything in there. Took the door lock to the local Ace hardware but they couldn't cut a key...

How about a clogged tank vent? Runs until tank vacuum is too high, then shuts off, slowly vacuum decreases and allows a restart. Take fuel cap off and blow into vent hose to check.

In theory, should I be able to open the drain on either primary or secondary tanks and still have an operable truck?

The lower track can make a big difference, but for the hinges, a penetrating oil worked quite well. My doors were extremely stiff wife and kids couldn't move them, greasing the track and oiling the hinges now they swing easily.

6x6 and 2014 date code tires, once I added some weight on the back probably about 6000lbs, put pressures to 85 it smoothed out pretty well. Still get some vibration when tires get in sync but its not a big deal. Don't plan on balac beads or liquid as the issue is so minor.

Another idea, jack up the front wheels and check for wheel bearing tightness. Eco hubs are held on by that single m5 screw in the split collar, if that comes loose the axle nut can back off. For the rear wheels you would need to turn off the park brakes or cage them (use those wheel chocks!)