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$9703+122.5*$120/hr=$24,403 ($/hr estimated). Also you must have spent money on tools and the time to research all this. This hobby is very expensive. Also...final? Does that ever happen with these?

I'm away from my computer and truck, but if I remember right, those lines are vents, not diff locks? There is a 1/4 line to the power divider on the middle diff, not sure about the lock front to rear out of transfer case.

Been using the truck a ton, kids love to eat dinner in it and we've been taking it to a local campground a few days a week. Installed cedar on the sliding door area and found out how much I hate structural adhesives. Had to go back to tried and true screws. Also installed the video system. 4...

Look up eco hubs if you want highway use. Stock they are at redline at about 60mph.

You said back, but that's the middle differential. I haven't noticed a temp difference and have looked with a thermal camera. The middle differential does have some extra components and maybe it would be hotter if having to work harder to match the torque split (different tire inflation?)

Been using the truck a lot. Have a campground nearby and going for a lot of one night stays. Working on installing the camera system that records video(4x cameras). Installed cedar around the rear door, liking the water setup(27 gallon tank inside filled with Jerry cans - side compartment holds...

The eye-eye and stroke doesn't have to match. No reason a linkage couldn't be used and/or different eyelet locations.

While they are better in many ways, there are still very few that come up for sale. If you want a good quality m1079A1R, you're likely going to be waiting a while.

Not much to add, but I got 2 black controllers on eBay that were thrown away, no warranty, like $35 each. Both function perfectly fine. Sample size of 2.

I replaced my suction line and it wasn't anywhere near that. Something like 20 pumps.

With my manual setup, I removed the flow restriction orifice on the return side of the cab lift cylinder (non pressure side so safety spring balls still in place), that seems to have cured the issue with the overflowing of the reservoir as the cylinder can suck the fluid in easier. Before I did...

Turned out the power side was just fine it was the ground side that was the issue. The ground was good all the way up to the back prong of the outlet, somehow there was a break between the back prong and the outer barrel. Got lucky and just happened to have a panel power outlet that looks like...

Thanks for those pictures, never seen the inside. Was hoping to figure out how the power got in (wire number, connector number). Not sure if that power is shared with other things in that pdp or not. Well guess I get to open it up and investigate.

Yep

No +12V on either side of CB84

The "cigarette plug" - passenger side kick panel

Attached wiring schematics (this one is modified to be text searchable). The TMs are significantly more of a pain as you can't just read through the pages the same way you can the PDF TMs from earlier models. As stated above, post your question and someone likely can help. If you really want to...

Any concerns about welding weakening the frame? This is a common thing people bring up, but from drilling holes it doesn't seem like the frame is a really high tensile steel.

Figured it was just unplugged, but nope. Also checked power at the fuse and nothing. This is an a1r. Power is going into the pdp so it seems strange power is not at the fuse input, and the TMs indicate nothing else in the way of the distribution. Before I try opening the pdp and breaking aging...

I use red n tacky, it has a drop point of 540 and bigger numbers are better right? Nlgi #2. I'm no lubrication engineer but suspect as long as grit, water, salt etc are kept out and pretty much any brand of grease is in there, probably good to go for pretty much any use case.