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Post pics plz... were of the visual sorts.

Yep... that would be the parts needed.

I hate to say this but that is prolly gonna crack again... and in the same place. Need to check the manifolds and head for warp'age... then have then shaved accordingly. Its a PITA process to under go but its better than buying another manifold set in a few months.

Nope it isnt, matter of fact it's directly fed by the battery...

Note that the horn circuit is a constant hot, many confuse this when trying to trouble shoot them. The switch (horn button) actually applies ground when the circuit is closed.

A LDS fan MAY work but a LD/LDT will not, diffrent bolt holes, diffrent spacing, diffrent count.

By the by, there is no cross for the wheel seals...

LD 465-1 and LD 465-1C will interchange with each other... LDS1and2 i THINK will interchange with each other... LDT's will interchange with each other... *edit*... sorry I should have said I was refering to fuel systems*

Check your vent and make sure its clear, prolly need seals though.

The dual voltage will be much easier to deal with unless your in need of the amperage like I was I would go that route. If you need any help just PM me, it would be MUCH easier to mount the 12V on the passenger side of the truck but my AC had to go there. Just get a dual pulley and tie it in...

PN???

Being that your C terminal is meant for battery they are prolly giving you the A terminal to pull some type of feed from and its prolly switched, meaning its on and off with the ign saving you the trouble of installing a 24V relay to control small accessories... If that be the case I wonder what...

Break free, PB Plaster, etc... let it soak overnight... Generally once they start moving it's pretty easy but age and rust can make the first turn a royal PITA. You MAY need to drive a chisel or screw driver in between the tension slots located in item 25 to help spread the ears if the 3/8ths...

Kenny, Pending on how hard those studs are we can prolly chuck them up drill and then thread them to take a bolt and retaining washer, at least if the bushing went bad it wouldn't eject it from the stud.

Loosen and / or remove the two 3/8 locking / clamping bolts (9/16 head)... Hold the rear of the compressor pulley so it can not turn... Turn the front half of the pulley counter clockwise to loosen...

Look in the TM section and down load the parts plus what ever other TM's you need (all of them?) for the truck, it has all of this stuff listed. You can also ask around, I am sure someone here has a whole wheel assy for sale cheap???

I think its a bad idea.... Or maybe not a bad idea so much as a waste of time... Here is the thing with using the front end parts... Its a NO BRAINIER... pull your measurements and keep it square, thats all you have to worry about. The hangers, u bolts, shock mounts, etc set right up, you don't...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewforum&f=97 try reading the two threads on picture resizing...

Kelly, The circuit is completed by the ground being applied so keep that in mind while your tinkering, I think you will be hard pressed getting something to cram in there and "look" right... You can pull the wire and jump over to the dash with a button if you want but I think thats kinda hard...

Yeah I cant remember whom did that file but its a nice one to take to Kinkos and have printed in black and white!