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There are no fault codes(checked with wabco abs software )I can literally stop that light blinking by switching to highway mode, the second I go to any of the other modes the light starts blinking again. I did verify ABS functions perfectly in highway mode, then in any of the other modes maybe...

Must be due to my ABS module programming. The light stops blinking the second I hit HWY mode on CTIS. From the Wabco ABS troubleshooting manual:

I do this stuff for a living and you both make valid arguments. While this is not the space shuttle, we also lost a space shuttle because tech level people thought engineers were over thinking stuff. The truth is somewhere in the middle. I was just speccing seals for an autoclave test chamber...

Been working on habitat prep, doesn't really make for interesting pictures. Will be putting up wood paneling with an unitrut structure on the inside where I can attach all cabinets, beds, etc. Making for a very strong and modular setup. Took it out on snowy roads for the first time today...

Could maybe use the abs modulators for this?

Yeah no brake pop, I'm used to that feeling from other trucks. Sure feels like a brake drag. I plan to go with a less viscous fluid, 0w20 motor oil shows same temp requirements as transend(per Allison). I may just go the motor oil route due to the few trans issues people have had swapping to a...

I think what he's getting at, this is actually a very difficult problem. The amount of torque needed to react to the loads, along with sealing oil, making a mechanism that locks all pins or whatever device in unison, also making sure they can't lock while driving, then you have to deal with the...

Not sure about torque on the land rover series, but some of my toyotas had several hundred lbs of torque on the wheel bearing nut and the nut had a deformable section. Pretty different setup to these trucks. I like the idea of locking to the splines curious to see that solution! I'll be keeping...

Center seat I've mounted dual narrow seats since I have two kids that needed a spot. For now still on the original seats for driver and passenger. I'd use the standard 3 point belts as well.

Depends on how you have it registered. Not sure about Colorado specifically, but RVs usually have different rules. In WI, if an RV I can go up to 80klbs and something like 43' before a CDL is needed.

Sorry if my comment came across as offensive in some way. I don't care for the split lock as if one screw fails (that can't be visually inspected) the wheel can detatch. It wasn't for me so I shared my modification, free for anyone who wanted it. I don't have the time or mental energy to deal...

I would argue spacers are not just a feel good solution, they are a mechanically better solution that also reduces installation error. They are also far less expensive too produce than a split collar. Please don't take this as an insult, I'm super pleased you took on this challenge but iterative...

Nice, thank you! Probably should have looked there first.

I wouldn't mind changing out mine for some of those 5 point belt style, see some seats on govplanet lately. This is the style, but these look like the middle seat.

Haha, damn, well that could do it! Any damage to the hub surface? It's not smooth and hardened like the thrust race.

Not sure the detailed function of the power divider, I can tell you that I can lift just one intermediate or rear tire and with brake off they will free spin (and spin the driveshaft). I don't have lockers though

I swapped my vent and supply CTIS stuff for polyurethane tube and push connect fittings. Much easier to replace if issues arise in the future. Note that the adapters on the frame bulkhead seem to have some kind of thread lock on them so kind of a pain.

So I have more info on mine...when cold (32 deg today, idled for 15 min before driving off) and I had pretty significant drag. In neutral it would stop the truck on my driveway hill. Feels a lot like brake drag, however after a drive, all brakes were within a few degrees. I did notice I needed...

Found a spare, unused ECM. Got it reprogrammed for 370 horsepower. Going to keep my original one stock horsepower and use it as a spare I think. Wasn't the easiest process but eventually got it done. Haven't tested it in the truck yet.

Haven't looked at all the TMs but the one I saw literally just said pump primer until it firms up and this will bleed the air out.