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Yep, when you switch the switch to warmup, it sends power provided by the neutral relay directly to the ex brake solenoid and the dash light…

I have driven several vehicles with ex brake and none have operated the brake lights. No ex brake vehicle I have ever driven has ever lifted the EX brake when you press the brake pedal, only when you press the accelerator... you should be able to use the two brake modes together... I...

In the A1 they are all 12v coil, either 4 or 5 pin. If you look at the schematic, for all the relays that are controlled by 24V, there is a resistor placed in series with the coil to dissipate the excess(adapt a 12v relay to a 24v power source)…

Perhaps that would be about the ideal, but I don’t know that 7th will be unusable with the 3.9. If peak torque is 1450-1550 RPM, 60MPH in 7th is only going to be ~100-200 RPM below peak torque. 6th and 7th are not really very far apart with 7th being about 87% of the 6th gear ratio(smallest...

TPS resistance should be between 9000 and 15,000 ohms(9-15 Kohms) measured pin A-C. A-B should measure a smooth transition between ~500 ohm to within 500 Ohms of the overall value measured between pins A-C as the TPS/throttle is moved thru its complete range.

Remember to have the cab fully raised and a crutch installed as opening the latch opens the hydraulic circuit that lifts the cab.…

Testing is relatively easy. It has a 3 terminal connector. The end two terminals measure across the resistor, about 14,500 ohms if I recall(let me look it up). The center to either end terminal is the wiper that rides on the resistor, and should be within 500 ohms of one end and 14,000 of the...

Yea I wish that info was a little easier to find for the 3116, that and the engagement torque figures(usually specced around 800 RPM for manual transmissions/clutches). Cat made so many different tunes of the 3116 engine for customers it isn’t funny. I ran across an Eaton clutch table that...

I suspect that is what he is experiencing also, Or the TPS is not indicating that to the TCU. The TPS input has a MAJOR effect on how these transmissions shift.

When upshifting, the transmission goes into lockup somewhere in our 3rd gear and turbine RPM and TC housing(input) RPM approach one another. I suspect that is why the 2-3 shift seems to hit harder than the others(that and its a bigger jump). The trans stays in lockup continuously thru all...

Its a hollow spring steel roll pin. You have to use a flat tipped punch/drift large enough to engage it all the way around the edge, but it should tap right out. If it wont move one way, tap from the other direction. You can squirt a little penetrating oil into the hollow pin to help loosen...

I had actually thought about this several years ago and worked up some numbers way back when. The numbers looked acceptable back then but I didn’t have any time to pursue it and shelved it for later. I am glad someone else is exploring the possibilities. Here are the numbers I came up with...

You can only make a pinion so small. In order to get a taller ratio, you need to make the ring(and pumpkin) a lot larger...

Applying air at the front red/emer gladhand should fill the tanks, and it should also release the park brake, just like when you tow the vehicle. It should not effect the park valve operation, if it is getting supply air it should stay in when pushed.

Park air comes from a 2way checkvalve between primary and secindary air feeding tge pedal. It is located to the left of thebrake pedal. If the service brakes apply air, then air is reaching the 2way. You can loosen tge middle 2way fitting if air comes out then it ismaking it thru the 2way...

Not sure how much prwssure is required to hold in the knob, but basically yes. The park springs need about 60 PSI to fully compress and release the brakes.

I dont think the center diff would survive this... I think you still wont be able to get into 7th, and without mode you are a 1 wheel drive vehicle(any single wheel spins means you are parked:)). That 70/30 split serves another purpose and is common on AWD vehicles. For driveability/control...

Will have to look into the 5th wheel plumbing as I am not specifically familliar with it. It should be basically paralleled off the normal rear gladhand fittings as it serves the same purpose to feed trailer with red and blue(park/emer and service air) brake air. Maybe you didnt cap something...

Park brake button popping right back out indicates no air is reaching the park control valve. Or the valve itself has an issue. It requires air to hold the control in the in/on/air applied/park brakes released position. If all the air bleeds away, the control will pop out under spring...

Or it is a metal re-enforcement from inside a seal…