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50wt oil is what the transmission designer specified. Use what you want.

Your neighbors need to man up and get the HOA rules changed instead of hoping that they don't get caught.

Where did you get yours from? I just found them on Amazon for 1/2 the price of NAPA.

What part number are you using for the 3/4" NPT block heater? I ordered two of the Kats 11619 block heaters from NAPA and, while the book claims 600W, the actual heater element is labeled 400W.

Sorry buddy but the joke is on you. Current flow IS opposite electron flow.

There is no need to weld the frame; you are just shortening it. In my discussions with the state, they really don't concern themselves with modifications that reduce the number of axles.

I have replaced this style of ball stud on 47-53 chevy pickups. Replacement, threaded ball studs are available for the 1/2 ton and may also be available for larger trucks of the same era which also fit the M35. Ball Stud-On Pitman Arm-Classic Parts Adjusting the drag link, pitman and...

I had always understood that the up/down play to be relatively large compared to end play. See the below specs for the 5.9 cummins turbo: end play min .001 max .003 radial clearance min .012 max .018 this is out of section 10 b series shop manual

It is a lot more money, but this is what we are using in our alternative energy lab: Switch, Battery Disconnect, Albright ED250B

What I have read on the tractor forums is that the most common failure mode for this engine is a burned cylinider due to leaking injector.

Thanks for the compliments. I was dreading the fab but it came together pretty well. I went from a well-muffled gasser to a multi with exhaust dumping into the fenderwell to the rear exhaust so I can't really commnet on how the noise compares to the stack. I would like to get rid of the whistler...

I put mine on the battery box which makes it easily accessible and lockable using a padlock on the battery door. The switch is between the negative of one battery and positive of the other.

I used an extra turbo elbow (turbo flange cut off), two 3.5" radius elbows, a stick of 3.5" exhaust tubing, and two exhaust clamps. I had to dimple the pipe next to the e-brake but it otherwise fits nicely. I just need to add a muffler and tail pipe.

I seem to recall that the LDS troubleshooting manual stated that the one-hole injectors are to be replaced with two-hole.

I did a multifuel swap a few months ago and am still running 3/8" rubber hose for fuel lines. I'd like to move to something more permanent but, even after numerous searches, the best solution is not clear. Several posts on SS suggest that airbrake line can be used but it is not officially...

Ditto. It'd be a phenomenally bad design if the pot adjuster was energized.

A diesel engine is generally considered to be a compression ignition engine (as opposed to spark, hot bulb, etc). The multi, being a compression ignition engine, is still a diesel.

Whether the FDC is bypassed or not, it's capabiliteis are still multifuel due to it's high compression ratio.

I'm not shooting the messenger; just want to see for myself. No offense, but there is too much mis-information on the net to accept everything as fact. It also looks like my deuce is on the edge of maximum headlight height with 1600R20 and no lift.

Where can I view the federal requirements? A quick search yielded a lot of garbage.