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Picked up my truck early March and just got the email saying my SF-97 was sent today. FINALLY.

Does it make any turbo whistle? I was also afraid mine wasn't working when I first got the truck because I never saw the waste gate moving but it definitely has some turbo whistle if you floor it.

When it slowed down to 5 mph at the end, was the engine still "roaring" rpm-wise or was it sputtering? A video of this behavior might be helpful.

Mine is weird. Sometimes it hisses loudly and sometimes the hissing just stops and it's totally quiet for a few minutes. It does not correlate with the activation of the cooling fan either. Everything seems to work fine when it's hissing or not hissing. No idea why it's that way.

Utah just passed a law saying former military vehicles do not need to display any license plates or stencils. The plate must be stored somewhere inside the truck and be provided to an officer if you are stopped. Not sure if I want to try my luck with that one though. Still a big PITA to be...

Yep definitely an electronic inventory tracking tag. Those things are on almost everything in the military.

Have you checked to see if the glow plugs are actually energized during those 8 seconds?

My fan is hydraulic clutch and I have a Dexron cooled rear differential.

244xxx so you must have just missed it

Interesting because my 2006 M1152 came with an 80 MPH speedometer.

Can someone explain how high offsets are bad? If anything, moving the mounting surface closer to the center of the wheel seems like it would decrease lever forces on the hub. What am I missing?

If it's a relay causing all the issues, I'll definitely open it up and take a look. Should be easy enough to swap out for a new relay.

This sounds extremely similar to my truck. Next time it does it, give the PCB a few taps and see if that does anything. Would at least narrow it down to some weird PCB issue. As soon as I smacked mine, it started working and it hasn't happened again but I'll see if I can duplicate it when it does.

And I had forgotten that I will need to take the calipers off to grease the slide pins anyways. I found solid OEM rotors on epay for $85 shipped each. If it's going to run $20 to have each rotor cleaned up at a brake shop, I'd rather spend $60 more (per rotor) and just get entirely new ones...

The pics are representative of all four wheels so if all I need to do is take it apart and apply brake grease that I already have a jar of, that would be awesome and save me around $600. I'll see if I can push the calipers in with some kind of contraption so I can apply grease without taking...

One of the pics online of the new solid rotor has min thick 20.7 mm stamped on it so I'll measure mine the next time I'm under there. If you don't think the lip is an issue, I may just leave the rotors alone as long as they are thick enough and just replace the pads and lubricate everything real...

After some more research it looks like you were correct. The solid and vented rotors are not cross compatible. Looks like I have to stick with solid rotors after all which may change my calculus if I can find a shop that will machine them down smooth for a reasonable price. New ones are like...

Odometer only shows 10k miles and I have no reason to doubt that. It's a 2006 and doesn't have any unusual wear that would make it seem like it's got way more miles on it. The rotors do seem unusually worn even though the brakes don't seem to be dragging. I think I want to replace them and be...

Oh shoot! Really? Guess I need to do more research.

I'm kind of leaning towards just replacing the rotors if I'm already going to be ripping the truck apart to get to them then have to try and find somewhere to turn all four for ~$100. Anyone know if those ones I linked above are the correct ones for my truck? I believe it needs the 12" rotors...