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I do believe you are correct. Maybe corroded relay contacts or something. Every day it's looking more and more like I'll be buying your box so I can stop screwing with this dang thing.

Just an update: The thing has happened a few more times and once right at startup in my driveway which allowed me to dig deeper. Turns out there is no voltage at the IGN input at the regulator when it's doing this. Or rather, not enough voltage? My meter showed 1-2 volts slowly climbing .1 volt...

Anyone have a guess what it costs to get all four rotors turned? I read elsewhere someone said it's almost not worth the cost compared to just getting new rotors. An added bonus would be that the new ones would be vented. At least I think that's a bonus? I'll try to get my calipers on there...

Been hearing a squealing sound that lingers after braking intermittently. Pretty sure its the rear brakes because I can influence the sound by pulling on the parking brake lever. When I took a look, I noticed that one pad is wearing faster than the other which is probably not being helped by the...

I also would like this and I hope an aftermarket manufacturer catches on and makes much softer springs. Doubtful it will happen though because there just aren't a lot of these out in the public.

100% agreed. I'll never use it but I can't stand the idea of it not being installed for whatever reason.

See this is what THOUGHT should be happening. I was pretty confused how I'd ever get any kind of engine braking with how it acts now. I'll dig into it when I get a chance. Kind of have to triage things so this is lower in the list. Gotta figure out the brakes at the moment.

Okay that makes sense. In the unlikely event the engine is stuck at full throttle, I'll just put it in neutral which is what you'd do anyway. Thanks for clearing that up.

Right, a test is performed to make sure a device performs a certain way so you know it will perform properly in the course of using said device. In this case, I don't understand what the "use" is. Why do I need the TCC to unlock while pressing the throttle and brake at the same time while...

What real world situation is pressing the brake and the throttle at highway speeds simulating though? Why would I need to disengage the TCC while pressing the throttle while also simultaneously pressing the brake? Sorry, I'm not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand what possible...

When I let off the throttle and RPMs drop to idle while driving 60 mph, is that the torque converter unlocking? I don't see how it would be possible to do that with the torque converter locked. My trans light is not illuminated if that matters. My TCC absolutely is locking but I am trying to...

Is it bad if it doesn't do this? My TCC does lock up fine but doesn't unlock when I press the brake because the switch isn't working for whatever reason. It does unlock when I let off the throttle though so I'm not sure what purpose the brake switch serves since I won't be braking and pressing...

I told him to look exactly that up, a 95 Hummer H1. He came back 2 minutes later and said nope it's not in there. His system only shows Hummer H2 and H3 as options. At that point I didn't want him to touch my truck anyways so it was probably for the best.

Oh I'm 100% prepared for that eventuality. Just like you I said "are you sure? It's weird and uses shims" and the dude said yep, no issues. Sometimes I feel like people aren't really listening to what you are saying.

I'm pretty sure it's unlocking as soon as I let off the throttle or it wouldn't be going to idle. Unless I'm missing something obvious?

I guess my follow up question is why do we need to unlock the torque converter when pressing the brake if it's going to unlock when it gets back down to slow speeds anyway? Essentially, my question is, is it a big deal if my torque converter switch doesn't do anything for whatever reason?

I would almost be more surprised if a 23 year old engine wasn't leaking somewhere. Sounds like maybe leaking from where the fuel pump is or possibly the valve cover. Is it something you can live with or are you wanting to dig into it?

I took it up to 70 for the first time last night. As soon as I let off the throttle, RPMs drop to idle. Is that normal or should it hold and provide some engine braking?

Yes I'm tracking that aspect of it. I just don't understand what this switch does? Pressing the brake unlocks the converter but it seems to unlock any time I let off the throttle or the engine RPM wouldn't be at idle when rolling 50 mph. What is it supposed to be doing? I imagine holding rpm...

I've been messing with the position of this switch such that it always reads continuity and also such that it always reads open regardless of pedal position. I have noticed no difference in the behavior of the truck whatsoever. Let off the throttle and RPMs drop down to idle while rolling...