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That is what I thought, too. Mine are on backwards and doing the same thing.

Alex, no motor is 100% efficient in converting electrical power to shaft power. There are losses: friction, copper, magnetic, etc. When I worked as a power engineer, 1kW/ HP was the rule of thumb for the motor and associated wiring losses. The conversion is correct, it just doesn't account...

We used 1kw per HP as a good rule of thumb when calculating power drawn by a motor. Seems to me that the most elegant setup is still a belt driven compressor and all-electric is an approach of last resort.

It is no big deal to change the weight or plates. I've even legally changed the year of a vehicle. The DOT doesn't care if you remove axles; they do, however care if you ADD axles.

Holds up fine. Doesn't work on the exhaust manifolds, though.

Assuming that these are the "cup" type of freeze plugs... If you had to tap them in with a hammer/ socket, I doubt that the sealer influenced their falling out. If you have persistent problems, Loctite makes a product designed to retain bearings to shafts, etc. I have read that this is also...

I used Krylon camo green.

Mine did that and the fix was a new transfer case...

$450 for the parts truck (springs and hangars). $300 for the M105 trailer. $150 to lengthen the rear driveshaft. maybe $100 in misc hardware. Lots of labor.

Rockwell already had a higher speed gearset designed. In fact, someone on this site had a copy of the drawings for it. The secondary reduction gears on a rockwell are going to be a lot easier to manufacture than a 9 inch ford.

That should be an easy gear set to make. I can't see $2200 when hypoid gears are nearly an order of magnitude less and more difficult to manufacture. I also can't fathom what could be so novel about their gear set that it could be patent pending. Of course, a patent isn't worth the paper it's...

The Zenith is better but it isn't magic. We are going to try a 500cfm Holley...

My wife's boss is a pilot; I'll ask him tomorrow. However, my understanding is that the air cooled engines run hotter and burn up the additives. For example, most small air cooled engines (at least the ones I own) still strongly recommend straight weight oil.

Mine has the same notched plate in the tranny but will still vibrate into "disengaged". I believe that others have devised methods to lock it engaged.

Mine will vibrate out of engagement after awhile on the road. It really needs some kind of detent to keep it in gear.

My brother purchased the holley weber from Langdon. Landon wouldn't sell him the linkage kit; insisting that it wasn't necessary. Took a lot of work to get Langdon to sell it. In the end, it was exactly what was required. It seems common to rate engine horsepower at an RPM not intended for...

Externally balanced cranks (ie. sbc 400) have a balance weight in the balancer. Internally balanced cranks still have harmonic balancers.

You do NOT have to start in first gear because of a sprag xfer case. Gringeltaube? did a nice writeup on this.

Oil temperature lags coolant temperature. I suspect that you simply didn't allow enough warmup time. The bypass filter won't keep engine damaging debris out of your engine but it does have some benefit. I wouldn't expend the effort to remove it. Again, I think that you are worrying too much...

Honestly, I think that you are worrying too much. 20 micron is probably typical for mass market, common car/ light truck filter. However, even with a virtually worthless bypass oil filter, you should still get good service out of your truck. It is not that your oil filer is or isn't...