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You have the left side driver kick panel?

Earthroamer?

I do worry a little in recovery situations, literally twice the torque to the rest to the drivetrain to apply the same force. Really don't want to shred a diff or snap an axle. I'd be hesitant to do stump pulling or other such activities, with the 2:1, likely traction is the weak link...now it...

Here are the pages. I'm not super familiar with the 939, but it looks like blocking both sides of the seals, then pressurizing to 80psi and checking that no more than 10 PSI leaks out in 1 minute.

I'm not finding a refence to that tool for testing hub seals? This is the closest I found:

Ronman: Yes, you have it all correct, I was just wording the CTIS vent as describing the front hub vents

After digging though TMs and posts on here, found the two axle vents and the 2 hub CTIS vents all connect together and vent is located near the bellhousing vent. Verified that one by blowing into it and could feel the air compression(like blowing up a balloon), air flowing back tasted horrible...

Okay looked at the vent lines from the axle, both were completely blocked. Enough that when pulling the fill plugs, both rear axles let out a fairly significant hiss. Truck hasn't been driven for a few days.

Wondering if anyone can describe what's in Eaton PN 599913 rebuild kit?

Thanks for the info, I looked at the vent lines but didn't have time to follow their routing as it went up the frame rail to somewhere, so many lines there it will take a bit to trace.

That pepper trick saved my ass on an old landcruiser :)

Noticed a rear tire was down on pressure a bit so refilled to 80psi. Also replaced the quick release valve near the muffler as it was missing. Then after a drive, gear oil sprayed out of the discharge from the quick release valve on the forward rear axle(connected to the tire that was low)...

My truck came with 3d printed handles, broke the third time I used it. Truck latches also needed lube so there was extra stress. I replaced them with aluminum ones and lubed latches. I wouldn't use 3d printed parts for this situation. Considering potential high loads, it's not their ideal use...

Wind was pushing them back, had to have my kids constantly fix them. Looked around the hose and found some scraps that I mounted with the unused screw holes on the doors. Clamps are just standard cable guides (silicone) and the other parts are aluminum pieces I had laying around from other...

Is the coolant recirculating in this overflow? With gas engine overflows it doesn't.

It has the bayonet plug on the top of it, also has the multiple battery shut off points (physical one beside the battery box, switch driver side kick panel, switch right side of engine bay)

Seems this had to be a modification? Wiring diagram for A1R I don't see mention of a 100amp option, only the 260. It has all the other A1R stuff (grab handles, insulation, WTEC IV, etc).

Thank you! Still new to how to use the TMs.

M1096 MTV, but should be the same for any of the MTVs I would think.

Totally agree, although with CTIS that introduces air exchange.