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If you were going to do that much work to it, i would forget about the rear leaf springs and airbag it instead. It is going to make for one bouncy ride, you might as well try to eliminate the bounce and improve on it.

do yourself a favor and dont rush into changing the clutch. I had a Injection pump issue that was slowly adding fuel to the crank case causing it to flood. when this happens it pours diluted oil out the rear main seal and or the front main seal. If it comes out the rear main the clutch gets...

I got a funny one. Why doesn't the parts list for the trans exploded view show all the items called out in the pic? I don't know if the images will show but the it's TM9-2320-209-20P pdf page 222 and 224

i was shocked reading this to imagine a 3mpg improvement just from swapping the fan material. Thats why i mentioned the electric, at least that way their is zero load on the crank. :deadhorse: If you got a dual fan radiator kit you could rewire it in series for 24 volt.

i figured that. I was just throwing it out there.

If anyone in the New England is looking for to have a shop for Axle, Drive Shaft, or Flywheel resurfacing work. Check out North Shore Axle & Machine in N. Reading MA 978-664-2300 and speak with Dave. He has a killer shop and he is one of us. He has a 67 5/4 ton Kaiser. He isn't on Steel...

This may sound stupid but if your changing fans to gain mpg's other than it not looking correct, why not use a electric fan setup?

thanks for spelling it out for me. i have my pyro up at cyl 2 and i can hammer up a steep long hill in 3rd gear at 30mph 2200rpm and be at 1150˚. I am sticking a "oil" psi gauge in as a fuel psi gauge after the final to try to use to monitor clogging filters. eventually i'll get a boost...

i totally understand the pyro and how it is used to dial in the fuel psi/temp but what is the point of a boost gauge? I know what it does but just dont understand how to use it other than read it.

The p/n is 99499 and I found the best deal online at Advanced Auto Parts. They were $65 and there was a 15% discount coupon for online ordering. It gets better though. If you build your order over $75, you get free shipping. They just happen to have the 3" sockets for the axle nuts.

Thanks DH! great link with the P/N 99499 now i just need to find one. I saw that video on the grease trick.

Dose anyone have a p/n for the sleeve for the deuce? IS this something that is bought at napa?

The seal is out and the inner black line around the crank has a score mark that you can feel. I dont know if there is a allowable tolerance or not but i now need to order a speedi-seal i believe. i am glad i jumped the gun and ordered a normal rear main seal. Also noticed the crank is marked...

no retainer. I get it out tomorrow and grab another pic for the **** of it.

I don't think mine has a retainer but i will snap a pic and get back to you. btw... anyone know where i can get one of these caps from the transmission? The part with the arrow pointing at it i noticed is cracked in 2 places.

DH, Do you torque them or loctite or both? Also what is the easiest way to remove the rear main seal and pilot bushing? Clinto, thanks for the link. While it's disassembled: Machine flywheel Replace rear main seal and inspect crank for groove (use speedi sleeve if necessary) Replace...

just got back form having the flywheel done:mrgreen: but he couldnt do the pressure plate :cry:. so has anyone ever disassembled a pressure plate to resurface it? i will give it a go but i was looking for any torque specs for reassembling it. on another note, flywheel bolts should be replaced...

wow... that will be a fun thing to figure out. At least i know now... any other fun tidbits of information i should know about?

Its all apart. No problems thank God... That flywheel is one heavy bastard. Bringing the parts to the machine shop tomorrow. I was debating doing the refinishing myself on my Bridgeport since i have a rotary table but i think it wouldn't turn out as good. I have parts shipping in from all over...

so i started to drop my trans today and i got a surprise. As soon as i had the seat and tunnels removed, the flange on the output shaft was missing one bolt, and 2 more were ready to fall out. The fourth was tight. I was like WTF, this sounds familiar. other than that the trany drop went...