Search results

The fact it is making the normal 14v output tells me the regulator is at least partially working, driving the SCRs properly to maintain that voltage.

Sealant around the airfitting? You could apply some localized heat.

Yep, sounds like the voltage regulator On top of the alternator housing. You can confirm this If you unplug the regulator and start the truck. the alternator should go to no power output Which will confirm the field is not shorted to ground inside the alternator chassis. This alt feeds 28V to...

The bands on the two small wires on the 24v relay(K1) should be labeled TL 505 & 506. The bands on the small 12V ign relay(K2) wires ahould be TL 168 and maybe TL 169(not labeled on the schematic I have). TL 505 and 168 should be 24V from CB45 via the battery sw and ign switch. TL,506 and 169...

With the batt disconnect relay and the 12 and 24 batt to ign points jumpered up in the power panel, what voltage are you measuring for 12 and 24 at the power panel? Regardless of whats clicking, With those 3 relays bypassed with jumpers, you should have steady power between batteries and the...

Ok was going to say bypass the disconnect relay if it was clicking, but since you have done it already and the ignition relays are still clicking, then the issue must be the supply power feeding the ignition relays. Ig you jumper from the BATT to the IGN terminals in the power panel, that will...

Those are the ignition relays, K1 and K2. They connect 12v batt to 12v ign, and 24v batt to 24v ign when you turn on the ignition switch. Those relays shouldn’t have any connection to the battery disconnect relays. battery 24 goes thru CB45 thru half of the battery disconnect sw under the...

What exactly is clicking? Which relays? Did the power at the 12 and 24 batt bolts in the power panel drop during the clicking? i am trying to get an idea where to tell you to bypass, so you can stop the clicking and do a proper load test to find where your voltage is dropping off Under load.

So this starts its cycling when you push the start button?

Just got a chance to look at your pics. Thats a weird way to measure voltages. The black lead should be connected to chassis ground. Then one of those pathways should read 12v and the other 24v. The voltage should disappear beyond any open disconnect sw or relay. Measuring at the various...

Yep, i suspect NDT is correct. a bad connection between that disconnect relay and the power panel in the dash. When you pull current thru a bad connection, like a kink in a garden hose, the resistance causes a voltage drop. This only happens under load, so voltage isn’t considered good until...

For the most part, but then so will the drawing in the A0 manuals:) Yours won’t have the component he labeled “Boost” on a 4X4. the primary line goes from the 2way check thru the(and past) the load sensing proportioning valve then on to the brake relay valve To feed the brake chambers. Every...

Using it in place of the polarity box would also be a logical location for the vanner. It has IPX and ANSI/IEC specs for weather, rain, pressure wash and immersion exposures. IMO it is at least as water-proof as the polarity box is. Putting it in place of the polarity box would also be fairly...

Yep, answer ALL the questions:)

Yep, little guys are the coil and big guys are the contacts. If you follow the wires from the big contacts, one goes from where battery + connects to the solenoid and the other connects to the starter solenoid coil in. The aux start relay completes a circuit between these two points (applies...

How much room do you have under the passenger dash? I got an extremely good deal on the converter I shoe-horned under my dash. But a Victron orion 70A 24-12 would fit to the kick panel very easy in most cases Under the dash is the best IMO as it can be connected up easily with a few short...

Are those the actual wire numbers 501 and 502? Are they in a wire bundle with other wires, if so what are those numbers?

The cab shouldnt move side to side... if it can, it will still do so when pinned... If the cab could move enough vertically(limited to about 1.9" total travel) to push you over the edge, you have already imparted all the energy necessary to rollover anyway... The only ref I recall is to...

With 13 PSI added to atmospheric pressure, water boils at ~245F. With 16 PSI added to atmospheric it boils at ~250F… you are gaining about 40F of delta over an atmospheric pressure boil… quite frankly, if you are unable to dissipate the heat generated with the delta provided by a 212F...

Sounds like a plausible way to use the existing wiring to use the other switches…