Search results

I was told to remove a small plug near the bottom of the ball, then remove the zerk from the top, place it where the plug was in the bottom and grease until the grease just starts to come out of the top (where the grease zerk was). When done, return the plug and the zerk to their original positions.

duplicate message deleted

Unless I'm picturing s different grease point, aren't you supposed to grease from the bottom, not the top? You temporarily move a grease zerk to that point and pump it up into the bearings.

Your original plates were brass?

I have no idea what winch goes on an M714, but the winch for an M37 is a Braden LU4

There is no "Civilian M37". THey were all made for the military. I posted wiring diagrams in response to your comment in another thread. Not sure what you mean by "civilian coil". If your truck was converted to a civilian 12 V distributor, I can't help you on finding a coil for that, but it...

There is no "M37 civilian". The truck was made for the military. I've attached two wiring diagrams I came across in the past. One is for the earlier M37, one is for the M37B1.

That’s roughly a set of gears every 20,000 miles. I’m curious if others who have done such repowers have had similar results. I put about 1500 miles on my truck with a 230 engine before replacing it with a rebuilt 251 which I’ve now got about 8000 miles on. The transmission and transfer case...

I guess you are right. I just found the picture of the data plate on my 1951 M37. It's all caps:

From TM-9-2320-212-10 Operator's Manual page 1-5 or the older TM 9-8030 Operation and Organizational Maintenance page 19: The truck has a "recommended towed load (max)" of 6000# in highway or 4000# off road. Since the only hitch on the truck is the pintle hitch it stands to reason that it is...

Vintage Power Wagons appears to have two different Main Data Plates for the M37 (the description for one of them says it's for the M37B1). I can't tell a difference between the two, but I did not look all that closely...

I've never seen original tread in an 11.00x16. Do they exist? The original NDT tread does give a nice, authentic look. However, they are awful in snow an not much better in rain. The only time I've driven that style tread in mud was on an antique Coot UTV - and the set of well-used snow tires I...

Are you looking for the original type of tires or open to other tread styles or sizes?

I may be remembering incorrectly, but I think the sockets are in the connector, and the pins are on the switch. One thing I would recommend while you have the problem socket out of the connector: make sure the socket has a snug fit on the correct size pin. One of mine was loose, causing a poor...

YEs. An ohmmeter might tell you that a coil is bad, but it can't tell you whether it's good.

Is there no kind of electrical terminal duplicator or splitter that will work? (Something like what you see on modern car battery terminals, where the main connection goes to the batter post, but the clamp also has one or two smaller terminals to piggyback other wires on it.)

Do you have power to the distributor?

Did you mean to include a link or something with that?

From what I can see from the internal wiring diagram for the 3 lever switch, and the wiring diagram for the M37, it does not appear possible to have the front amber lights (which I believe are referred to as the "Parking Lights") on at the same time as the headlights. For the M37 at least...

When my headlights and blinkers started acting flaky, I traced it back to a bad socket in the connector that attaches to the three-lever lighting switch. I opened up the plug and cleaned the pin sockets and crimped one of them a bit so it would grab the pin more solidly. It was a bit of a pain...