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They look like they require wheel specific lug nuts? Is this the case? I keep thinking I should get a set of rims like this, along with reasonable winter tires so I can save the military tires and rims for parades....

If you have to ask, you can't afford it? :ROFLMAO: Last time I was looking, I saw these rims and it looked like they had been discontinued. I didn't find anything that said they were or not, but something changed and all of the places selling them stopped listing them for sale.

It's not electric, the t-handle is just a ratcheting (one direction) wrench. The nice bit with the t-handle you can pull it down with a reasonable mount of force/body weight while under the vehicle to get the bolts loose. Think of it as a ratcheting closed wrench cut to be about 1/4 to 1/2 the...

Ya, I always use these one way wrenches for getting the bolt loose or the (near) final tighten, but you definitely have to make sure you don't work yourself into a corner. With that said, I didn't have any issues when I did my brakes with it.

No allen head on any of my calipers on my M998.. Everything was standard hex. M1123 and other newer units might be different.

This is what I used on my M998. https://modmafia.com/product/brake-pad-replacement-tool-set/ The main reason I'm posting this is the T-handle wrench. It makes getting to the top bolt, loosening and tightening it a breeze.. (It was a snapon part in the kit I bought.) (Note I didn't pay $252...

While far from authoritative, the couple of people I've talked to (involved in Army logistics at a unit level) have all said they've been told to expect the HMMWV to be used heavily for domestic uses and parts to be available until 2050. International usage and especially conflict zones...

It's my understanding that a lot of these restrictions are state specific. I can only speak for myself, when I investigated Hagerty for my HMMWV (in Minnesota) they said it had to be stored in an enclosed/locked garage. I never went any further in reviewing it with them.

The 10mm plug will burn itself out within a year, while the real thing will last a few years (at least). Throw away the 10mm, and buy the real thing. You really want to avoid that pain! (Plus the easy extractors only support 3/8" hex.. so when the 10mm does swell and get stuck it's even...

Nice.. did you have it built or actually find one? I suspect some folks would love actual dimensions of it to produce their own.

Sure everyone here knows the HMMWV is setup to allow a full size pallet in the back. But figured I'd remind all the new people of this. It can be very helpful! Housemate works at the local small town American Legion bar. The ditzy manager forgot to do their alcohol order for the next two...

I’ve got the 5x2 on mine, works just fine.

Search YouTube for JerryRigEverything and his HMMWV EV conversion. He ended up using H1 buckets and lights. He said they "just fit", once you buy the buckets and lights.

I never figured that it was a 'bleeder', but instead a diagnostic port to verify fluid was infact going to the clutch. On my M998, when I redid the caddilac valve and tubing, I added the 'T' and bleeder specifically so in the future I could verify things were working as expected, not because I...

If you have the middle charge on the batteries, you need to always remove BOTH Negatives! Otherwise you can get "back" circuit through the front he battery. Pulling the Negative and front 24V should accomplish exactly the same thing. I always worry though pulling a positive that a tool could...

I'm nearing that point I REALLY need two new batteries for my HMMWV. Thanks for the giveaway!

Two temp sensors. One for the start box, in the water jacket top passenger side of engine with a big harness…. The other affects the injection pump/fuel delivery. It’s near the rear of the engine on passenger side, on the side. Accessible via the dog house.

Double check the connectors (as previously mentioned). If that is good, I believe the wait light goes to ground (this is from memory so DEFINITELY verify in the wiring diagram!). If your grounds in the dash area are damaged or iffy that could be a problem. There is a grounding screw to the...

Good luck! If you do end up removing the heads, definitely have them inspected by a machine shop. It's worth it. There will probably be cracks in the pre-combusion cup bottoms, but don't worry! There are some standard measurements you can use to determine if it's OK or if they need to be...

The other thing to look at, some of the wiring for that comes from under the dash and across the top of the steering wheel shaft. Inspect there (no need to disassembly anything) and look for chaffed or broken wiring. (On my M998 that caused my switch to fry killing everything... but the most...