Search results

AN/PRC-138s are really nice and the most modern thing to escape the crusher in miniscule quantities (you can get them in the older OD paint or the newer CARC green), but...haven't seen any for sale for probably 3 years, and when they show up, just the basic packset R/T is north of $5000. Then...

Ensuring you have good batteries is important because as the available voltage decreases, whatever's being driven by the batteries starts to draw more current. With the old, original PCB boxes (silver label Prestolites etc.), the extra current drawn across copper relay contacts wouldn't matter...

I've had lots of bad starters on diesels that draw far too much - many 6.2s and 6.5s in both CUCV and HMMWV - but also Ford 7.3s in our ambulances, which all seem to expire within about 10,000 miles of one-another.)

https://fairradio.com/product/am-598/ In my opinion - overpriced - but they have this, the mounting tray and some other stuff too. Other than the price, I've dealt with Fair Radio for years and they're first rate.

Now *that* is making me jealous! Nice setup. Always like the 5022s and would either go that way or the PRC-138 and the Harris VAA and amp if I had a limitless bank balance. Oh. And Uncle stopped shredding everything into aluminum confetti.

On the manuals, there's the -20 and the -35. Most of what you want to know will be in the -20. There are copies around online for free download, though personally I have to have a paper manual in front of me when I'm playing around with things like this.

No audio is unusual. No audio *and* no mod is highly unusual. Just as a baseline, does your radio have a cap on the 'X-MODE' connector on the front panel? That cap isn't just a cap - as it's wired with jumpers in order to provide normal operation of the radio when not connected to VINSON...

Paul Keys at Columbia Electronics may have one: http://www.columbiaelectronics.com/ and sometimes lists on Epay, also Mike Murphy (Murphyjunk.net) had some parts as well, though not sure if he has that specific module. Could also try www.americanmilspec.com as he had some 524 and 246 parts as...

Flasher handles and flasher boxes I consider a high failure item, so I carry both as 'road spares' on long trips. I won't even install the older-pattern flasher handles with the lever made of plastic because every one I've ever had (used ones, granted) failed within a few weeks of installation.

When looking at M151s...it's all about the body - specifically the condition of the unibody structural components, and - if it's a reweld - whether the reweld has been done anything like competently (and there are *many* scary ones out there.) If you look at the thing for two hours - spend an...

http://www.milspec.ca/radspec/prc-138.html Canada mounts them sideways on their HFQRT setups. Haven't heard of any problems. I've seen them on shelters mounted this way too, so it's obviously one of the authorized setups.

I don't have the manual in front of me, but on a couple of demilled RT-246 sets I found the HV wire leading from one of the base sockets of A9000 was clipped off right at the socket. Might want to have a look before going too much further.

That's just the registration number. Just by way of example, one of my old M1009s was 'NFODRS' and one of the other memorable trucks at work was NG08G8.

The earlier control boxes (Prestolite original types) had relays, which, if I remember correctly, were one for the Starter, one for the Alt-to-Bat connection, and one for the Glow Plug circuit. So, you'd get boxes that would clunk and not connect Alt --> Bat so no charging, and boxes that would...

Box might be full of water, but if you have a DVM handy that does resistance, pull a couple of the glow plug wires off and measure between the tip of the glow plug and a clean ground with the meter set to a low ohms scale or diode check. If the meter indicates an open circuit, the plug is bad -...

As has been said - latest and greatest box - but either you have a ground problem or the box is full of water. Given what I've had happen before...I'm guessing the latter of the two.

I've had a lot of those three-lever switches go, especially the variety that have Philips head screws retaining the lever itself by screwing into plastic. Basically, if you've pinched the Top and Right lever towards each other as far as they'll go (Service Drive) and the leftmost lever is all...

Austin's got another SIAD up for sale if any of you out there bought one of the recent Ebay FBCB2/ Blue Force Tracker setups and need one. Usual caveats apply. And if you don't know what it is...you don't need it :)

Nobody commercially makes dummy SINCGARS. You basically have to watch eBay and the classifieds for a very long time if you want any kind of deal. Occasionally people list complete two-set early SINCGARS setups for something just shy of $10K, but those people are hitting on the recreational...

Gave some A models to the Afghan National AF for use as transports, then supplied millions in parts and training to the tune of something like $400 million...then scrapped them all. http://www.defenseindustrydaily.com/c-27as-for-the-afghan-air-force-05094/