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Yes. 4/3 reducer at the front. ODdave welded it up for one of his trucks and originally ran straight back to rear bumper. Nice exhaust but close to my rear tire due to offset of the H1 wheels on my truck so I cut it and put an elbow in it with weather flap. Sounds good!

Finally got some exhaust on the truck. MUCH more pleasant to drive!

I haven't done anything with the head gaskets. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it but so far so good. Been hauling lots of wood with it the last few months with boost in the 10-12 psi range.

Mine is a simple mechanical gauge that reads plenum pressure through a brass fitting and plastic hose.

Too bad. Nice guy.

True, you CAN use the factory 6.2 left manifold but it is quite a bit smaller outlet diameter than the 6.5 manifold, which is why I decided to go with both manifolds. Good point on the front driveshaft clearance. My truck IS lifted so stock crossover works well. Made it easy not having to fab up...

There are plenty of build threads here that will answer all of your questions. I have one and there are quite a few others. Just double up the exhaust manifold gaskets on the turbo side. 6.2 and 6.5 gaskets are the same.

The leaf blower Monza video is awesome! About as practical as a 500 HP 6.5 too.

I saw that dual turbo setup as well. A stock 6.2 would never be able to handle anywhere near the capabilities of that system. A stock 6.5 setup moves more than enough air for the 6.2 in stock form and is easily capable of scattering the engine all over the road if you don't keep it under reigns...

Yes there are a few diesel engines that I'd rather have in my 1008. If it wasn't such a hard and expensive swap I'd have a Duramax and an Allison 6 speed. However, my original intention was to own a cheap wood hauler that I could just park behind the barn when not in use and NOT mess with it. I...

I just watched ebay until I found a good deal on a matched pair. I'm sure all of the name brands work well. I chose small diameter Autometer units so I could fit them into the panel where the volt gauge was. (I moved that gauge down to the radio block off plate so I could keep the turbo gauges...

Yes there is. It is not needed. There wasn't one there before and the truck had been driven on a daily basis with no issues. There is also not one there on the newer donor vehicle. The purpose of the large underhood filter is to catch any debris coming from the tank before it gets to the IP. I...

The factory electric lift pump is no bigger than a fuel filter so there are plenty of good places for it. I mounted mine back by the tank on the inside of the frame rail where it was on the donor vehicle. Black wire simply grounds to frame. Red wire has an inline fuse in the wire and it picks up...

True. Many folks retain the mechanical lift pump and braize a tube to the pan for oil return. My used turbo came with the stock electric pump as well as the engine block off/ drain so I went that route to keep things as factory as possible. Best thing about it is there is no chance of vapor...

Just hooked my CDR back up as I was tired of getting whiffs of crankcase fumes while driving. This use of extra plumbing materials may look hack but it gets the job done and allowed me to keep the original CDR and bracket in the stock location and reuse the rubber hose to the filler neck.

Agreed. Turbo lag is a moot point on a 6.2 really anyway as they come on fairly early and with 10 psi max there is no lag issues with this "powerhouse" lol. Turbo lag is felt with more heavily boosted engines that can handle the extra hp. The 6.2 is all about lag anyway.

Wet oil inside the turbo may have come through the donor vehicle's CDR valve, either from a bad valve or really worn engine. Mine had oily residuw around the front of the turbo but that's where it appeared to be coming from. My turbo has 200,000 miles on it but works great on my 32,000 mile 6.2...

Why? It's got very few miles on it and does the job well.

Nope. With the double gaskets everything cleared but indeed close. I could see how the manifold could be swapped without jacking the engine, but it definitely would have taken a lot of finagling on my truck. A few of the bolts would have had to have been inserted into the manifold and held there...

Good point on the frame brace. However it was easily unbolted and modified by slotting the bolt holes to move it slightly farther within the frame rail to clear the 6.5 manifold. That was easier than changing one end of the crossover and bending it IMO and I really did not want to use the...