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Gauges installed and operating.

Thanks but these civilian trays won't fit the big T6 batteries. I may be onto something. Front battery is okay but the rear battery needs to move outward.

That fuel line is no longer being used. The new fuel line runs along the inside of the rail. Vapor lock happens when a mechanical pump is used up front trying to suck fuel that has vaporized. I am using an electric pump back by the tank which pressurizes the line which is one of the best cures...

Got the right fender liner back in. A ittle work with a sawzall and grinder and I was able to use the factory 6.5 downpipe. A couple of the factory indents look like they were made for this frame style.

I've thought about that but my batteries are brand new

Having fun trying to figure out where to move my #2 battery now that the turbo infringes on it's space. Wouldn't be a big deal if I were using standard size batteries but I have the big 6T batteries. Anyone have any suggestions?

Here's where I ended up putting them.

Got it up and running yesterday! For some odd reason the truck starts and runs much better than it used to. (IP adjustment?) I know it's getting much more fuel as there is black smoke out the pipe when I rev the engine. Factory crossover fit fine, although there's not a lot of drive shaft...

Me too!

Stock fuel pump taken off the same 95 'Burb. Fuel pressure is relatively low on these trucks, typically 4-10 psi which is about the same as the 6.2 mechanical lift pump.

Made some good headway this afternoon. I re-routed my front oil cooler line to clear the 6.5 left manifold. Easy to do with a 90* street elbow from the hardware store. I also unhooked that line from the clamp on the inner fender so I could route it inside the frame rail and over the motor mount...

Yes I had an eBay search set up as well for a Banks system but they are harder to find at a reasonable price. I would have used either system depending on which good deal showed up first. There are a ton of these older turbo GM trucks sitting around dead somewhere waiting to be picked over. I...

Yes. Mine's from a salvaged '95 Suburban. I made some more headway this afternoon and it is finally looking like an engine again. Waiting for my $15 crossover to show up from eBay, and hopefully that bolts up and clears the driveshaft. Looks like the CDR valve will work just fine in the original...

That sure would make it easy. My ginormous military batteries are almost brand new though.

Haven't had a lot of time for the truck but I did get some work done on it this morning. Some of these steps were no fun at all, like the right manifold installation. Had to drill and tap the three broken flange studs. Also had to unhook the right engine mount (which involved removing the...

Where did your batteries end up Dave? I am worried about mine since they are the huge military style.

You can still buy 13g's online. I just ordered one from Summit. My truck has one bad one and 7 good ones and since none of them show any signs of swelling I am just going to replace the bad one while things are apart for the turbo.

Found one way around the interference over at The Diesel Place so I thought I'd post some photos in case it will help someone over here. The fellow used a 90 degree street connector at the block to move the front cooler line out of the way of the manifold. Seems simple enough. Please let me know...

Was just outside getting ready to swap the driver's side exhaust manifold for the one from the 6.5 donor and it looks like there may me an interference issue with the oil cooler lines? Am I going to be able to use the 6.5 manifold on the left side?

Good luck to you. Everything's pretty straightforward so far. I'll bet the biggest issue will be relocating those two honking military batteries.