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Hold on. You said you bled the air out of the fuel system. Did the starter turn when you tried to start it, did it make a clicking noise, or did it just do nothing? If it made a clicking noise, your batteries are about dead. If it did nothing, but the starter bench tested as being fine, its VERY...
Pretty much same thing here. My M1028 is registered in NC as a K30. Didn't even have to do the inspection stuff because of the age (and its diesel to boot) Insured as a K30 too. If the insurance company and the DMV were smart enough to decode the VIN (which isn't that hard to do) they would know...
If you can find one for a decent price, you might want to see about finding one of the older Ford pickups with one of the IDI engines (6.9 or pre-powerstroke 7.3) and dual fuel tanks to play/experiment with. Guys love these things because they can top one tank off with straight diesel and the...
Another great book to pick up is the Haynes Diesel Manual. Its got all of the info on the 6.2 and 6.5 engines as well as some other ones. If you get the book, just keep in mind a J-code CUCV 6.2 is the same thing as an LL4.
Depends. I'm not a big fan of them. I've seen open 10-bolts with 3.73 gears and stock tires blow up in front of small unloaded horse trailers. However, IIRC the axle was a bit low on oil. I've also seen the same truck pull a trailer with hay bales (two of the big round ones) down the highway...
Only time I've ever noticed my light coming on and staying on is when my front battery's really low. My M1028 used to love to kill the front battery driving down the highway with the headlights on. I could always tell the battery was getting bad when my seat belt light would come on. I never was...
Welcome from Nebraska. Keep an eye on this place too: gsaauctions.gov. They've also got all the fun stuff the U.S. Marshall Service "acquires" :grin: I've noticed the government auction side fluctuates a bit in regards to trucks. Its kinda like playing country wide whack-a-mole. Case in point...
I once heard something to the effect of, that as wire insulation degrades over the years, it gives off some sort of chemical that attracts mice and rats.
They're ok. I added a new pair into the truck once, but now I've got the Caddy alt in the GEN1 position (lifetime warranty=:D) I've still got the one I got from Rare Electrical in the GEN2 position (albeit with one rebuild on it). Last time I had it taken out and tested it was putting out 14.6...
Could be algae. It is possible for it to grow in diesel. Pick up a copy of the Haynes diesel manual. Its got a little more info on algae in diesel as well as repair procedures for the old 6.2. IIRC theres stuff you can dump in the tank to kill algae. Could also be crud from the bottom of the...
:ditto:
Happened to me once. Dropped a fresh set of batteries into the truck. Somewhere between half an hour to an hour with the truck just sitting the voltmeter was in the yellow :shock:. On another note, one of the things belt squeal can be indicative of is a heavy load being placed on a...
If you're going to regear and keep the stock axles here ya go:
GM 7.5 in. - 10 - Ring and Pinion Gears - SummitRacing.com
If you copy and paste the manufacturers name and part# into the shopping section of google you can usually find someplace that has got it at a better price. Summit tends to...
Figured it out. Turns out that the wire which runs to the ground post on GEN2 from the 12V block had burnt through the wire (but not the insulation) just before the fusible link. (of course) Did a half way decent job of jimmy rigging the wire until I can get a new wire spliced in. The voltmeter...
Brake line seems to be fine. Looks like it just singed the surface a little. Sorry armytruck, not much to take pictures of other than burnt up wiring and the ensuing electrical tape. If you've seen one CUCV you've seen that already and I'm sure as **** not recreating the incident. If I do take...
While working in the garage I decided to swap around the alternators in my M1028A1 around as I suspected that one, although I had taken it out and it tested fine, had a faulty voltage regulator. All went according to plan until I noticed that the terminal on the red wire for the alternator was...
:ditto:
Not to say it can't be done; I've seen guys running 35's even 37's on 1009's with 4" of lift. Pretty sure they had the 10-bolts. Not sure if they had been regeared. I'm not a big fan of the 10-bolts. I've seen them blow up with small horse trailers, never mind out wheeling.
Should be pretty easy. I've done it more than a few times on my M1028. Pop the hood and find the big bundle of wires going into the firewall on the drivers side. There should be a bolt in the middle, unscrew it and pull the plug out. Then look at the actual fusebox. Theres two REALLY long sheet...
If its for the diagnostic stuff, I wouldn't worry about it too much. From what I've heard the equipment to run a diagnostic test on a CUCV really doesn't exist anymore. And if you can find it, its the size of two full-size fridges stuck together and even back in the day wouldn't really tell you...
I haven't really noticed an increase in MPG, but I just did it this week and really haven't driven the truck enough to say yea or nay. Sure hope it does. Come January, I'm gonna have to start driving around 60 miles each day to get to school and back :sad:
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