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Read the original quote. -Ian

Better yet: Go to Autozone. Request part # DL7157 (100 amp Caddy alt, approx $100, and oh yeah, lifetime warranty) Rebuild GEN1 anyways. Throw it in your "Oh S***" box. Use rebuilt GEN1 to replace GEN2 if it ever goes out. Proceed to drink frosty beverages. :beer:

Superior Axle and Gear G105342OE - Superior Axle and Gear Ring and Pinion Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Hey, whatever works for ya. My understanding is that guys do the spin-on mod because the stock filter bases can crack and leak. If this ever happens to me, spin-on here we come! $40 vs. trying to track down a stock filter base and whatever the price happens to be. Seems pretty obvious to me...

I know a lot of guys like the spin-on setup, but did you consider just changing the fuel filter? Like $15 at any parts store. Biggest PITA is bleeding it. No need to reinvent the wheel.

Why? The blackout lights are just there in case you happen to be driving with NOD's on. Ergo, they're pretty useless in less you've got a pair. But, that would defeat the purpose of the headlights. If it was me, I'd have a look at the wiring diagrams and go from there if you really wanted to do it.

Yeah, Murphy's kinda an a**hole...

You'd be surprised. Bill Heath once made a comment that when the 6.2's first came out, they found out they could spin them as high as 5,300RPM WITHOUT them flying apart. Long story short, a diesel's a diesel. It may not operate at as high a speed, but it operates at higher pressures than a...

If it doesn't turn up, even with a search, chances are its in the TM ;-)

The TM has a troubleshooting section for the glow plugs. The Haynes diesel manual also has some really good flow charts for trouble shooting the GP system. From what I've seen, when people have a problem with something in the GP system its usually one of three things: 1. The glow plugs...

The diffs aren't too bad. Take the bolts out, crack the cover from the bottom and let the oil slowly drain out from the bottom before yanking it off completely. As for the driveway, I'd say throw about a bottle of Simple Green on it and spray it down with a garden hose.

:ditto: The front and rear diffs should have magnets as well (at least my 1028 does). You can pull them out and clean the ferrous gunk off with brake cleaner. Just make sure you put them back in the same spot!

As a side note, if you keep the PS pump/hydroboost all intact you can put a pretty nasty cam in that 454 without having to worry about brake vacuum. :D

Sounds like your voltmeter relay is toast. The relays under the dash are the starter relay, GEN2 relay, and voltmeter relay. The part # for the GEN2 and voltmeter relays is 12033862.

They're kinda hard to find, but they're still around. Never had any experience with it, but I had heard from a guy who was a USMC mechanic back in the day that half the time the equipment wouldn't tell you much more than the idiot lights would. And yes, you can pull the wiring and stuff out...

Yeah, watch those fenders. I don't know if the 1009's have them, but all the trucks (M1008, M01028, etc.) have a small metal piece that attaches to the wheel well just behind the front wheels with a couple of sheet metal screws. And...it always seems like the first piece to rust. I've found the...

:ditto: Seems like the website is acting flaky at best.

Also have a shop that can do it check, and if necessary, readjust your idle speeds. These trucks have two idle speeds: a fast idle speed when the engine is getting warmed up and a slow idle speed for everything else. You can check and adjust these speeds yourself, but it requires a special tool...

LMC sells these: LMC Truck Parts - Page 81 They also sell just the lights (so you don't have to buy the entire bumper. Chrome=Eww. . .) and a kit so you can turn the lights on and off at will without having to keep the truck in reverse.

When you pull the instrument panel off it looks a little like a circuit board on the other side. Theres also a plug and a connector for the instrument panel on the back. Trace the wiring on the back side from the bulb sockets back to the plug and check the wires there for voltage/continuity...