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I would be a little leary if the one on the door was missing. . . If it was me, I would decode the VIN from the dash and see if it lined up with the truck. (google "Chevy truck VIN decoder" the first thing that pops up should be what you're looking for) If the VIN didn't line up with what the...

Hmm. . . Are your exciter wire plugs hooked up at the alts? If you bypass them (I.E. if you make a jumper wire/plug to hook your GEN1 up to the front battery) the lights won't come on. How did you check the bulbs? Did you actually apply power to them and check them? At a minimum you can check...

I just know I'm going to get nailed on this one: If you have both original alts (I.E. isolated ground) The autozone alt in the GEN1 position is not that bad an idea. I don't know why it says 78 amps in the wiki, autozone rates it as 100 amps on their website: Duralast/Alternator (DL7157) |...

Maybe so, but not that much. H***, the companies that make water/methanol injection systems claim the things can increase your mileage by 1-3MPG. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNO-47005/ And they still want stupid amounts of money for them. I once did the math to figure out how long it would...

I should've clarified a bit. The screws will unscrew and tighten, but the screws are torqued all the way down and won't tighten any more yet its still loose. I will agree with taking the lockouts apart. I'm starting to think it might be about time for a rebuild, but theres really only one way to...

The last few days I had been noticing a clunking noise coming from around the front driver side wheel on my M1028. No shake, shimmy, vibration, or other weird stuff, just a clunking noise that (if I could hear it) seemed to proportional to my speed I.E. it increased the faster I went and vice...

Wikipedia says that "The M1009 was rated for a 1,200 pound payload" which would seem to put it in the 1/2 ton range, but at the same time "It used the heaviest duty GM springs available for the chassis and the rear axle was a 10-bolt unit." "Heaviest duty GM springs" would seem to point to 3/4...

I got my relay from NAPA. Decent price, ($30 give or take) But I do like anything with a lifetime warranty. Case in point, I've got the Caddy amp in my GEN1 spot. My first one went bad after a couple months (the bearing went out causing the fan to smack the case) Took it out, brought it in, got...

:ditto: Make THEM work for their keep!

Read the article. Thats why I put links on here. For the engine in the article it was replacement pistons with a special coating, a partially filled block, and yes, a head stud kit (but thats probably more for the turbos and boost than anything) Not even a girdle kit on the bottom end. Just one...

I'd say no problem. I drove my M1028A1 about 1,000 miles in two days coming from NC to NE. And its bone-stock to boot. All I did to it was change the oil and replace the belts before heading out. I also kept it around 55-60 on the speedo (around 50 or 55 in all actuality) Then again, I also just...

Correct me if I'm wrong (I haven't had the pleasure of replacing the truck's starter yet) but aren't there some shims for the starter as well?

:ditto: Hmm. . . Yes. Testy the young Padawans are. . . Calm down we must.

Here ya go! I'm kinda partial to the custom headers and twin turbos :mrgreen:

Okay, the 6.2 and the 6.5's aren't the greatest engines in the world, but its surprising what you can do with them. Provided you need to put a bit of work into them (and $$$ for that matter) But try reading this: 6.5L Diesel Land Speed Truck, Bonneville Salt Flats, 6.5L Diesel Just look at the...

Try checking out this place: 6.2L Diesel Engine - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums Theres also a few SS guys lurking around on there. . .

GM part # 25041910. At least thats what it is for the CUCV. gmpartsdirect.com has it for about $85. The part number includes both the bottom and the lid (top). If you ever need parts for a CUCV you can just check the -20P. The "part number" in the description is the same as the GM part number.

Theres directions for trouble shooting the voltmeter in the TM.

I made one myself a while back. The hardest thing to find was the little plastic piece. It goes on the passenger side of the truck near the radiator. You can see a pre-punched cut out on the truck. The rest of it was a "make-your-own-air-intake" kit from the auto parts store with a flexible...

:snopes check: Not true. While it is true that the front battery powers all the 12V stuff on the truck, you can jump EITHER battery with a 12V vehicle. If both batteries are dead you can actually jump them both with a 12V vehicle at the same time with a pair of jumper cables. Granted there may...