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It would probably work, but is not "correct". The alts are *both* supposed to be isolated-ground. However, the GEN 1 position *is* grounded via the stud to the top of the engine. So, a "normal", non-isolated ground, alt will work in the GEN 1 position. If your GEN 1 was not connected properly...

Assuming the truck is stock, I'd really wonder where in the heck they are making their voltage measurements. And perhaps question their abilities. Connecting to the front battery should get you 12v. Connecting to the rear battery, you'll get 24v if you use the frame as the ground reference. It...

It could, yes. Please take some voltage measurements, as indicated in the threads mentioned by Warthog. Only then can you narrow down the issue, and address it appropriately, rather than just guessing and throwing parts / money at it.

Vacuum lines - hard and soft lines, vacuum pump, vacuum regulator valve. Start there. edit: Forgot to add modulator valve on side of trans if the others things check out...

In a stock setup, yes, the GEN lights need to be working to get the alts to 'turn on', called exciting. You'll need to get out the voltmeter and start taking some readings and comparing those with what they should be.

I would expect it to be the same as all the rest of the CUCVs. Perhaps someone added a temp gauge?

Isn't this covered in the GP Theory of Operation post in the useful stickies section of the CUCV forum?

The GP relay is on the firewall next to the 12v buss on the drivers-side of the engine bay. There are pictures of them in the useful threads stickies. Measure the voltage between ground and the two big terminals. The readings should be very close to the same when the relay is engaged. There is...

Wow, not what I was expecting... thought this would be a thread about a woman interfering with another womans attempt to hook up... :-)

While covered connectors would be better, those should work for you. Maybe use some of that liquid electrical tape on them? As to the starting problem, have you tested the GP system with a meter? The GP relay contacts can get carboned up and not allow the GPs to operate properly.

This has been covered before, a search should turn up multiple threads on this. The basic answer is: Yes, depending on the antenna base and antenna used.

The -20 TM would cover the GP testing, but as yours is modified, only the ohm testing of the GPs and the testing of the relay will apply, probably, depending on how the push button was wired. I'd suggest tracing out what you have and understanding how it works. There is some debate over which...

Welcome to SS! Please read through the useful stickies at the top of the CUCV forum, as well as download the TMs from this site. You'll find lots of useful info, including possible solutions to your hard start issue. I'd look into fuel leaks and check the condition of the glow plug system to...

Check the helpful threads sticky in the CUCV forum, as the under-dash relays are clearly shown there. As for the fuel pressure switch, it is not needed unless you plan on using the STE/ICE diagnostic port at the bottom of the dash. It does leak sometimes though, and can be a source of air in...

Don't know why the GEN 1 light would come on when the 4WD lever is moved, but.. The capacitor between the 24v buss bars is just a noise filter and has nothing to do with the voltmeter, and is not needed unless you are getting alternator noise on the radio. I'd suggest that either the voltmeter...

Since you know how to work on old English cars, you should be able to handle the CUCVs electrical system... [thumbzup]

If it 'cranks' then it is 'turning over'...

I believe that is to move the diff vent higher so the pumpkin doesn't get full of water with minor fording... It is probably in the TMs somewhere...

What is that? It almost looks like some sort of insect nest. My truck had lots of paper wasp nests in all sorts of places when I got it. Luckily they were all unoccupied. As Rich said, you can just go from the GP relay to the 12v buss right next to it, using the correct wire size, etc. Some...

You could try running a hose from the IP inlet into a jug of clean diesel and see if it runs. The IP has enough pull to feed itself that way, and would verify if the IP is ok. There is also a test in the TM for the lift pump, pretty much disconnect the IP inlet and put it into a bucket, remove...