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Or shorted out... a test light is not a conclusive test...

One set for the wiper motor, one for the pump solenoid, and maybe something for the parking circuit?

Um, ok... then how does the driver behind you know you intend to turn when you are at a stop light, with your foot on the brake pedal, if the brake pedal overrides the blinkers? That makes no sense. I'm with dependable, there is probably a bad ground someplace. The light bulb sockets are known...

Why couldn't the disconnect switch be placed between the 24v block and the hot cable to the starter? Or a disconnect in between the starter relay and the starter solenoid? Could even be dash-mounted. The starter relay and solenoid would still be engaged, depending, but I don't think the starter...

In line with the fuel filter thoughts, there could also be crud in the tank clogging the filter sock on the fuel pickup.

How about load testing the batteries? Even if they are new, they, or one, could be bad. Don't remember how many batteries you have with your 12v conversion. Most any auto parts store can load test them for you. A simple, if not complete test, would be to put a voltmeter across the terminals of...

I don't think the original ball joints came with zerks, so unless replaced with grease-able ones, no zerks there. There is also a zerk on the pintle hitch, but I don't think that is what you are looking for... :p

"A man walks down the street in that hat, people know he's not afraid of anything."

Gen 1 shares the heater blower circuit, so check out the heater blower motor, switch, resistor, connections, etc.

The rag joint goes bad too...

Remove and toss the rubber adapter on the valve at the IP. Just remember, Top port for Transmission. The rubber part is no longer available, and no one that I know of has ever found a replacement part for it. It can be safely removed, and connect the hoses directly to the valve.

Maybe one of the alternators is shorted?

The only thing I've read here over and over again is to get that metal line started on the pump *before* bolting the pump in.

Good work! If there were a short, then I'd expect blown fuses or melted fusible links. My guess would be a bad starter solenoid.

With all you've done in pulling things apart and putting them back together, have you followed the voltage through the starting circuits? I'd start with checking the Doghead relay terminals. I forget the colors, but when not turning the starter, one of the big terminals should have 24v on it...

Check out the GP system before making changes. In some cases, the GP relay will need to be replaced after doing the bypass, as the contacts get carbon buildup on them, and the 12v conversion can't push through it. I think the bypass is a good idea, just beware that it may cost you some money up...

And this ships Captain? ... James Kirk... http://www.public.navy.mil/surfor/ddg1000/Pages/bio1.aspx#.UnF0_eLdfaL

There is a full GP system testing procedure in the TMs, all you need is a DVM and a some time. I'd run through the procedure before replacing parts.

Don't use it for a wheel chock ( or chalk, depending on what part of the country you are from... )

There is a testing procedure for the GP system in the TMs, which are available for free on this site. 20 minutes with the procedure and a multimeter will probably reveal where the problem(s) is(are).