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I'm just happy the wiper motor is still willing to swing the blades that are attached to it...

Can't help with finding the thread, as there are many of them relating to alternators... As for using a non-isolated ground alt, that can only go in the GEN1 position. So, if your GEN1 is good, and has the isolated ground, you can move it to the GEN2 spot, and then install an off-the-shelf...

If it were me, I think I'd wire a relay off one of the wires that is 'hot' out of the Service/B.O. light switch when in Service mode. Then have that relay switch power on and off to an accessory fuse panel, that has its own hot feed from the front battery. Then run lights, etc, off that fuse...

The common answer is that many people aren't familiar with the dash light dimmer built into the headlight switch, but, since you stated that the interior light works, I presume you know about that. Of course, the dimmer could be bad.

Is it just me, or does it look like your 12v buss is being fed from the 24v buss? I don't see the wire that normally comes off the front battery positive to the rear battery negative dog bone cable that runs to the 12v buss block. In the picture, it appears the ammeter is connected to the 24v...

A wood stove seller / installer suggests keeping sandwich baggies full of the dry chemical powder used in the ABC extinguishers handy in case of chimney fire. Just toss one in, and it *should* put out the fire. Anyone have any experience with this? What about those powders you add to the normal...

Don't forget that many replacement heater cores are not the same as the original, and the air may be flowing around them rather then through them. There are many posts on this subject. Simply adding some insulation around the core to direct the airflow may take care of the problem.

The starting procedure is also spelled out in the -10 TM. All the TMs for this truck are available at no cost on this site in PDF format. Lots of good info in there!

Wonder if my M1009 was part of the alpha test, as this was in it when I picked it up from GL:

Are both alternators the same? IE both isolated-ground alts? If so, try swapping them, and see if the problem follows the alternator. If it does, then you know the alt is, at least, intermittently bad. Otherwise, you can go back to digging into the wiring, etc.

I did not see it mentioned, and no reason why it would have been, really, but has the GP relay / solenoid been changed recently? The wrong GP relay / solenoid can cause issues with GEN1, as I recall. The GP relay / solenoid *MUST* be an isolated-ground part. No continuity between the small...

The GP's might have been in an afterglow cycle, causing the voltmeter needle to jump around.

Just a note here... the LMC wiring kit changes nothing in the stock wiring. To convert back, simply unplug the LMC harness from the headlight plug and bulbs, then reconnect the stock headlight plugs to the headlight bulbs.

Um, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but as I recall, the red hot wire and the brown exciter wire are in the same plug, so if one is missing, I think that would be a place to start looking. Perhaps the port with the rubber cap you mentioned is the one for the tach output, which is not connected...

Pictures of the bent parts, especially if it is the steering box, as I suspect mine to be bent, and would like to see one that is bent for comparison. With Winter being here, I need to keep the truck on the road, so any major work will have to wait until Spring. I figure this will give me time...

.... or you could disconnect the wire from the drivers side of the resistor bank, ream out the ring terminal a bit, and connect it to the 12v buss.

Follow the GP system troubleshooting section of the -20 TM. My guess would be that some, or all, of the GPs are bad, or perhaps a bad temp sensor is causing it to cycle the GPs more than needed.

Sounds like the problem is in the GP system. I would suggest following the GP system trouble shooting section of the -20 TM. A bit of reading, some measurements with a DVM, and the problem should be clear. If that checks out ok per the TM, I'd take a look at the 'cranks but does not start"...

Perhaps the power steering pump bracket broke?

Maybe the driving blackout light is on? It can be hard to notice...