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Hauled 2 tons of energy logs in it. Well, made two trips, but boy was she sagging in the rear!

Step 1) Disconnect batteries! Step 2) Double check to make sure that the batteries are disconnected! Step 3) Remove instrument cluster trim Step 4) Disconnect voltmeter wires Step 5) Remove resistor from back of voltmeter Step 6) Put it all back together again

Sometimes the solenoids fail when they get hot. Pouring water over it cools it down, and allow it to work again. Just one possible issue. As to rebuilt vs new on the starter... with a rebuilt, you know what you started with. Many of the new ones are made in China, and lets just say that they...

He says it is hard to start *after* having been run. Maybe its the heat-soak issue with the IP fuel-cutoff solenoid? Next time it seems hard to start, try pouring some water over the IP, and if that seem to help, you may need to replace the IP fuel-cutoff solenoid.

Just remove the resistor... a jumper wire would just make a short.

While I haven't tried it yet, I understand that the Thextron Power Steering Belt Tightener, part # 383, is very helpful.

Is there anything added to the panel where the voltmeter, not ammeter, is mounted? The voltmeter has 24v at all times, but the ground connection to it is switched by a relay when the key is turned on. But, if say, another gauge is added next to the voltmeter, it might be providing a ground path...

Were the batteries disconnected when the heater switch was replaced? If not, perhaps the voltmeter shorted while removing the instrument panel trim, it is easy to do, and burned out a fusible link for the 24v side of things?

Diesel in the oil pan could also be from a failing lift pump.

Also, if you do buy a new key switch, you can have it re-keyed to match the CUCV keys.

um... I've seen no mention of the GEN2 relay... has it been checked?

Here is a good thread on the subject of fusible links: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74776-Fusible-Links-101

There are more than one fusible link, and they can blow without any outside appearance of having done so.

Which one are you talking about? The GP Control Card? Antenna Climber here on SS sells redesigned cards. The one for the back of the instrument cluster? The GM part number from the TM's crosses to one that LMC sells. The only other ones I can think of are the Seat Belt buzzer and the Tach Buffer.

I just left CA 4.5 months ago, and am much happier for it!

Just beware of any usage restrictions that come with an Historical registration. There may be yearly mileage limits, as well as not hauling cargo, personal or otherwise.

um, it clearly says in the TM that the throttle might need to be blipped to get the GEN1 light to go out.

There are open spots in the fuse box that are 12v hot when the key is on, a spade terminal will fit in there. I'm using one to power the 12v accessory socket I put in the ash tray. There is at least one spot in the fuse box that is 24v, as I recall, so check first!

Is the housing of that tach isolated from its ground? Otherwise, the voltmeter might be "on" all the time, as it is the ground connection to it that is switched by the 24v relay, and its mounting bracket, etc, is isolated from the metal parts of the dash, etc.