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What RWH said. 20 psi is only for the old bias tires. MT radials love to keep mud in them, not self cleaning.
BTW = brake throttle modulation. Simply maintain throttle/engine rpm and modulate the brake pedal to increase resistance to the slipping tire so that others will turn, thus freeing...
If your b pillar from tub to bar is straight/not bent then do not cut them. Tilt windshield frame forward. Use sikaflex to adhere the rabbats and then rivet. Since your truck had armor, I'm sure things are out of whack.
Also, the B pillar setup is NOT a roll bar. It may bend upon upside down...
4 bolts hold in the control box under the dash. The big connector with wire is from the engine harness and connects to the top of the control box.
Nice truck though. Good time to consider putting a turbo setup in with 4 speed. With the tunnel empty, it is a lot nicer to convert. Body...
That is the B beam. If you remove it, then you better beware of side impacts/t-bone accidents. If you look at civi h1s, they are removed BUT they place a steel rocker protection skid on the side of the tub. Also the h1s have a more robust b pillar than the soft top military one.
Nice thread. Good to see it being put back together. I have the M1123 b pillars fully dressed amongst other items missing to get this truck up to snuff. Pm me if you want.
My M1037 was from the Atlanta auction and it is one of only two M1037 sold. Both from Okinawa. One with undercoating and one without. My is the latter.
Think inches. 19/32" is 100%, 16/32 = 1/2" is 3/32 less tread than new and 13/32 is 6/32 less tread than new. The lower the x/32 number the less usable tread on the tire. Get a high of a number you can get, preferable 19/32.
Never new they had a kit. Bracket looks similar to the smoke grenade launcher and the siren looks like a common military 24vdc unit.
Do you want this because you are in wale pa? Hahaha!
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