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Rear doors: Version 1 is standard door. Version 2 is short for uparmored 1152. Also, since no one has come forward for fronts panels, I am not going to have them made.

That is a rear cut down to fit.

Here are mine when populated. Again, I would only provide the flat door panel. NO hardware or Armrests. Sorry, I will not be doing the rears.

I can get them made for $250 per set = left front door and right front panels. NO hardware, just cnc'd aluminum with all holes. pm me if interested. I will require advanced payment to secure your order for I do not need these. Shipping would be extra.

I'll get fresh pricing on these. They would be blanks...no hardware or arm rests. These front doors will sit about 1/4" higher than rears though but it never bothered me.

I have now posted my ad in the SS classifieds parts for sale. Thanks.

I'm out if 78" Halogen but I have many 66" HID light bar kits. Look for ad tomorrow in classifieds.

I'm getting interest on these so I thought I would bring this up from the past. Made for hmmwvs but have been used on a lot of other trucks. Price will be in the new ad soon. Thanks. TedG

I still have 66" HID Light bar kits for sale. My ad is gone so I'll repost soon. Google that and you will find my ads and posts. TedG

Those are M1114 doors and they require a LOT of BAE parts that can be hard to find. The amount of parts you need to even fit them is well over $20k and the doors will be almost the same. The thing to remember is that standard hmmwv doors are curved. Any door that is flat requires filler...

Low batteries can increase the time the light stays on.

The 280-10 book has sentence about drainage after fording.

Sometimes you can put pressure on the rivnut and then turn the bolt. Try pulling the bracket towards you, else cut off and start over.

My point is why wait until it you hear clicking which might be during a catastrophic failure (broken brake line, etc.). Boots can be found for the 7.7 half shafts for very little money and it does not take long. Or at least pack it with grease and wrap with stretch wrap. Labor on a hobbie is...

Replacing a boot is very simple so why wait?

They should NOT be on the front hubs!

I have modified a 100 amp generator to fit the 400 amp bracket. So far no problems... Drill out the holes for the 400 amp bolt and add a spacer between rear lobe and bracket.

Bonding can mean "attach, secure" and that is what I meant.

Harness is Prestolite 10 gauge, 1oz. wire. It's for bonding all components, not made for loads.

IIRC, the aluminum intake for a humvee and a cucv type setup are very similar. Only difference is the cucv has a divider in the manifold. Should work though. That area has a tendency to dry rot. As long as it is not cracked into the filtered air, it should be fine.