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Thanks for all of your help and tips! I just got back from a very thorough test drive, including off road including 4 low lock? (all gears) he bought it over a year ago from GL. hasn't done much to it other than oil/ fluid / air filter changes .. the engine compartment / cab still had lots of...

Im suposed to got look at it an a hour or so... thank you all for your suggestions and will keep all that in mind tonight> I will report back my findings and what happens!

In Oregon It can ONLY be registered as "special interest" witch does not expire, and only supposed to be used for parader, demonstrations, testing and repairs, shows and automotive events pretty much anything.. but NOT regular full time use... read into that what you will:)

Exactly most of what there is left to do is actually drive and operate everything as suggested by others here... dooing my research one here IS "me" checking with someone or many in the community as I personally do not know anyone into this hobby or even vehicles in general// so this is my...

im trying to find how to inspect the injections pump and what to look for with the doghouse off ..

NICE! iI dont really have time to work with the logistics of checking out a rig, getting down there and driving it back to portland, all with uncertainty and problems that "may" come up.. Its worth it to me to spend a bit more to get a running sorted unit... or at least know what is needed...

want ing almost 18K ...

agreed on wiring nightmares!! seems just about every truck i look at (civilian) has had homade wiring hacky jobs done

cool govt auction prices seem really high now for the turbo/ A/CC trucks... but I also prefer working with a "known problems" truck as I dont feel comfortable buying from auction unless someone who knows what to look for can inspect/ help I dont HAVE to have turbo / AC buuuuut :) would be nice

exellent idea on the "cold start" Doors standard floppy vinyl doors, top looks good, but its pickup config now (thats how id use it) , havent seen it in person yet but glass looks good, led headlights , also agreed after reading al these suggestions about adding the extras.. they will have to...

yes it DEFINATLY needs tire, i could see that from the pics and they are the old style 998 treds not the newer MT 's speakingof tires.. can a normal tire/ truck shop replace these? i think they are bead lock / runflat but not sure ....

agreed,... is there a way to check it while im there w/o dooing to much dismanteling?

I was wondering about the fuel filter, it seems that if it needed replacing they would do it with the other maint? its an M1123

thanks for the response! sounds like some great starter info! I am fairly adept at wench turning... have owned and highly modified a 71 M35A2 for several years!! (in my sig/ pic) so that where Im coming from.. I have not seen the H1 yet in person so I dont have much info to go on other than...

wanting to know what specifically to look for on these things other than the usual "used car" stuff? specific options ? the one I'm looking at buying is 2002 16,900 mi. fording kit, pickup/ troop carrier cover, out of california depot. "good condition" new batteries, need fuel filter..what...

$20 shipped! unused thanks!

you can buy a "Nexiq" interface that plugs in from your laptop to the J9139 from there you need the CatET software.. you can buy "greay" market versions on ebay or other places for a couple hunnys. I "THINK" the real curent version is subscription based and $$$ per yr.

I think the Best of Both Worlds would be to have the larger tires on the inside and Bolt the smaller ones on the outside duals that way when you're on hard surfaces like dirt or cement only the inside tires would be contacting the surface then when you went into softer material the outside set...

I think two dual Tire up front would be extremely helpful in situations like mud sand or snow or the very front heavy truck would just sink or dig itself in further... But could you imagine the steering effort of dual fronts in soft material without power steering?

After ATTEMPTING to remove the starter, I think I will abandon this project. I would try to remove just the solonoid portion, but I cannot get access to the end with the part that is screwed in toward the firewall side. I do not have the right tools to do this job, even if I did I do not have...