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It usually comes down to dirty contacts in various places and 25+ year old wiring that may have corrosion inside the insulation. The system wasn't that great to begin with, as most of the time "good enough" is the penny-pinchers phrase of the day. You could take the time to clean every...

*PLEASE* read the CUCV Wiki and the GP Module Theory of Operation stickies at the top of the CUCV forum. They will answer many of your questions!

I have not noticed that. But I have noticed that active auctions that are in my watch list that require an EUC will not show up in the close watch list after the auction ends. Very annoying. I was told by GL that that is just the way it is.

Um, I"m sure it is small, but doesn't the timer module have a continuous draw of its own?

I recently picked up an M101A3 from Camp Pendleton in SoCal. It used to belong to the USMC. The data plate on the bed is pretty much scrubbed clean. The data plate on the trailer frame is faded, but the VIN and manufacture date sections were stamped, and so were readable. For my SF97, I listed...

Well, the voltage gauge is really only 12v, and uses a resistor on the back to drop it to 12v for the gauge, just like the way the glow plug system is setup. Why they didn't spec a true 24v gauge in the first place is a mystery.

Mine came with a pair of group 31 batteries. When one went bad, the front one by the way, I was happy to replace them with the $35 refurbs from Interstate. They've been running fine for about a year now. I thought I had seen an ad a while ago in the classifieds here for a place in SoCal selling...

Please read the stickies at the top of the CUCV forum page, especially the FAQ... many of your questions will be answered there.

It is a good idea to test the vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge before assuming it is bad. The vacuum switch on the side of the IP can also be tested with the vacuum gauge. This should narrow down the problem pretty quickly, assuming it is related to the vacuum system.

Do you have a load tester? Much better at determining the condition of the battery than a multi-meter.

You mean that this is not one of those new flat-pack HMMWVs from Ikea? Some assembly required?

So, do we start the debate about the CUCV having / not having an accessory position? Mine does... put key in ignition, push in, turn counter-clockwise, power shows up at the wiper fuse. The ACC position is shown in the wiring diagrams as well. This is where I plan to tap into for an accessory...

The tabs in the bulb sockets at the turn signals, not the blinker light in the dash, are prone to failure, resulting in odd turn signal behavior. As for the dash lights, I presume you've turned the headlight knob to make them full-bright?

What he said. Especially at the turn signal sockets.

Engineer775 on YouTube had a video about an old diesel car, VW - I think, that he was running on a pallet load of damaged lighter fluid cans. Seemed to work for him. Let me see if I can find it... ah, here we go... http://youtu.be/5s1K3UglFr0

They will "dump"... but it was not designed and engineered for it. It was only intended to enable denser packing for shipping of the trailers. The frame may break if used for dumping any sort of heavy load. Don't ask what "heavy" is in this case, because I have no idea.

Just remember that just because people advertise them as "dump trailers" doesn't mean they are really intended, or designed, to be used that way.

Do you check the "remember me" box in the top right when you login? Otherwise, I think it times out your session after a while. At least that has been my experience.

I'd think you would need to decide what you wanted to use it for first.

Assuming the dead vehicle has a standard 12v system, I would use the positive terminal of the front battery and a good frame or engine block ground for the jumper cable locations on the CUCV. Using the 24v buss bars is a bad idea.