Search results

If it is not air, perhaps the check valve on the IP return port is plugged up?

Blue pill or red? Sometimes you need to go down the rabbit hole. Putting the screw's part number into the part number field of this site http://www.dlis.dla.mil/WebFlis/pub/pub_search.aspx gave me an NSN of 5305011509781. Sometimes the description at that site will give you...

Use the part numbers in a google search with some descriptive words. Most of the time sources can be found that way.

As you post it here, I read it! :-D

No, it is not threaded in there, just a tapered shaft. I had to heat mine to get it loose. You could try hitting the socket it is stuck in on either side at the same time with two ball pean hammers, like they do to remove tie-rod ends.

...and where the temp sender is mounted

I've heard that people have had good results with Uship. I'm just saying be careful, and don't always take the lowest bidder. I have not looked into it, but I would assume they have some form of review or feedback on individual shippers.

Uship is just a service to connect customer with a shipper... any driver can sign up and bid on jobs, so keep that in mind...

Mine came with the optional rope starter...

Not "private" as in only you can see it, but "Private" as in rank. It says "Private" because you only have a few posts. It will change what it says at certain posts counts.

I'd say pull them and have them load tested.

Have you tried the -20p or -34p TMs that are available on this site? They list all the part numbers.

When working on electrical issues: Step 1) Disconnect batteries Step 2) Proceed with the job at hand

Axle u-joints?

Can't answer the JB Weld question, but can say that there was a post that talked about a freeze plug that fit the fuel pressure sensor hole.

You could try repairing yours, there are many posts where people here have done that. I think the o-rings are available. If it is the fuel pressure sender that is the source of the leak, some here have just pulled it out and plugged it up. Heaters, drains, and even priming pumps are available...

I believe that if the starter spins, then the solenoid is doing its job. The problem would then be with the bendix.

Oh, so Revell or Monogram don't count as correct answers? :-P

Glad it is working. Now please share what it turned out to be! :-D

In the stock configuration, ie resistor bypass not in place, the top of the GP solenoid will read 24v when the GP solenoid is not engaged. It should drop down somewhere around 12v when the GP solenoid is engaged and all the glow plugs are working. Be sure to check what voltage is at the bottom...