Search results

From what I've seen, that sounds like a steal!

Ok... color me embarrassed... :oops: I just went out to take a picture, and guess what? I was mistaken... no in-line fuses. I was so *sure* that they were there, in that short pigtail that attaches to the battery. The only thing I can think of was that it was my intention to add them there, and...

Mine came with two short in-line blade fuse segments, that connect to the battery positive, and plug into the rest of the new headlight harness. Are there different versions of these kits? Update - never mind, I was mistaken! No fuses came with the kit. I'll have to add them!

The accessory position is depicted in the -10 TM, though I don't think it is referenced in the text. My M1009 does have the accessory position, and I don't see any evidence that the cylinder has been changed, or that the column has ever been taken apart.

First of all, Welcome to SS. I'd guess that the solenoid on the starter is bad. Still though, it has to be said... always start with fully charged and load-tested batteries! Be sure to read through the CUCV stickies at the top of the CUCV forum, lots of good info there. Will probably answer...

If it were me, I'd be assuming that the top and bottom terminals, with the white part between them, would be the 12v and the signal wires. It looks just like the back of the CUCV voltmeter to me, with a resistor and everything. I'd expect the other two threaded posts were for mounting, though...

Once running, a diesel only needs fuel and air. On the 6.2l used in the CUCVs, there is a fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP. If this solenoid failed in an "open" position, there would be no way to shutoff the diesel. One thing you can do would be to place something rigid over the intake and...

May I ask why you are testing from the rear battery? There is very little that runs off the full 24v, so the rear battery doesn't see much load. I'd think it would be more likely that it is the front battery that is being drained. Perhaps run the test light between the front battery negative...

um, are the blackout lights on?

Maybe swap alts to see if the problem follows the alt?

In that sense, yes, the *housing* of the alternators *are* the same as the chassis ground, since they are bolted to the engine, etc. The only difference being that these alts have their internals isolated from their housings. Thus no continuity between the alternators housing and its ground lug...

Take a look in the -20p or -34p TMs for the part number, and have the local parts house look it up. If there is no part number, it will have the info for what size hose to use.

Perhaps it could have been worded differently. In stock configuration, both alternators are isolated ground units, meaning that the case is not connected to the ground terminal on the back of the alternator. They have one NSN / part number, easier to stock one part instead of two different...

You could run power directly from the rear battery terminals, but you would have to run *both* hot and ground to the battery, and make sure that the items being powered by it are isolated from the chassis ground. There was a post a while ago from a member who did this, I think for his CB setup.

I've added it to the oil of my M1009, and driven it for several hundred miles before preforming an oil change. I don't have a turbo, so can't speak to that, and I have not torn down the engine to see if there was any other damage. I did read many posts from users of Seafoam in the oil, and did...

Treating an engine with Seafoam via the vacuum lines is only intended for gasoline-powered engines that actually generate a vacuum. The idea is to pull off a vacuum line from something like the brake booster and stick it in the bottle of Seafoam while the engine is running. This will draw the...

Please read the GP system diagnostic procedure found in the TMs. It could be the GP controller card is bad or has a dirty connection. It could be the Wait light bulb is burned out or not making a good connection. It could be the GP system temp sensor is bad or has a dirty connection. Instead of...

Just look up '84 K5 Blazer on any shock application guide. Nothing out of the ordinary, unless it has been lifted, etc.

As they say here "...if its electrical, clean it" Fist of all, have the batteries load tested and fully charged. Always start troubleshooting electrical problems with good, fully charged batteries. For the turn signal thing, and possibly other issues you mention, find and clean every single...

Yes. It drains the filter of whatever is in the filter. Diesel floats on water, so if there is water in the fuel filter, the water will drain out first. In any case, it is not unusual for that drain valve to leak. I believe the TMs say to replace the o-ring on it when replacing the fuel filter.