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Hey CJ - From what I see in the -34p manual and the GM CUCV parts book, the fuse box is part of the dash harness. So, you'd have to replace the whole harness, unless you intend to splice in a replacement fuse box. I have not taken mine out, so have no experience with the ones in the CUCVs. I'm...

If you have a meter, measure the output side of the GP relay when it is energized. I've seen several here on this site, as well as my own vehicle, where the contacts in the GP relay had carbon build-up preventing a good connection. For me, this did not show up until I did the bypass. I'm...

That is what I read here, and is the way I have mine hooked up (Trans on Top). If you have not done so already, you may need to remove the little rubber block piece that goes between the valve on the IP and the vacuum lines. It tends to rot then leak and is no longer available from any source...

I read on here somewhere that it is "Top for Transmission"

I know this is a basic suggestion, but some don't know about it... have you adjusted the brightness of the dash lights via the headlight switch?

True. That is why I intend to swap the batteries around when I do oil changes. At least that is my intention... remembering is the problem...

That is Engineer775 on YouTube. He has some videos up on the work he has done with wood gasifiers.

Yes. I was able to move the cover / trim piece up and tighten mine a bit so now it stays where I put it. The only problem is the rubber part around the shaft came out of the trim piece, and seems to be too stiff to get back in place. Maybe I need to hit it with a heat gun to soften it up.

Rich - the video worked for me, just clicked the link and it opened in Windows Media Player. Thank you for posting your review and the pictures. I had no idea the visors would be that much of an issue. I already have problems with them hitting the review mirror, as my truck was missing the...

I went with the Bosch glow plugs when I changed mine. I bought the glow plugs and new terminal ends from Cucvelectric. The terminal ends look just like the originals, but wider. When I put the new terminal ends on, I crimped then soldered them and added heat-shrink tubing. I converted to 12v...

Looks good! Would love to see pics once you get it installed... Yes, I know there are pictures in the LMC catalog, but I want to see it in use by an SS'er.

Run it through a Berkey water filter and make Texas Tea with it? :razz:

I'm glad you found the problem! Faulty new parts are not all that unusual, especially if they are made in certain areas of the world. The problem is remembering that and not assuming the new part(s) "must be good".

If the starter is just spinning, with no engagement / grinding noises, then I'd have to go with the solenoid / bendix sticking or going bad. I presume you have already checked the connections at the starter and found them clean and tight?

Have you driven it? Did you bump the throttle to bring it off idle to get GEN 1 going? Mine always takes a good throttle bump, or driving, to get the GEN 1 & 2 lights to go off. I think it is even mentioned in the TMs.

Um, the heater fuse is shared by GEN 1... so if that fuse was blown, that may account for no GEN 1 light or charging.

I'd suggest doing the checks in the TM for the alternators. They have been posted here many times. Measuring the voltages at the exciter plugs, etc can help narrow down the problem. As for the bulbs in the instrument cluster not working, one bulb should have no effect on the others. I've read...

Yes - volt meter and GEN 2 No - GEN 1

On the back of the panel at the bottom of the dash where the STE/ICE diagnostic port is attached. There should be two small relays mounted next to the starter relay. If you've done the doghead mod, then you know where to find them! One small relay is for GEN 2, the other is for the voltmeter...

That I'd like to see! Doesn't the rifle get in the way? Block your view? I've been considering one of these shelfs from LMC for a while now, but have had reservations. Pictures would be much appreciated!