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The only thing that is 24v on that truck, in its stock form, are the starter and the supply voltage to the glow plugs. Oh, and the NATO slave jump port. Everything else is 12v. Well, unless you have the military radios...
Don't some of those bolts go into open water jacket cavities, requiring sealant on the bolts when installing them? Thought I read something about that here before.
When the jump starts were attempted, how were they connected?
Just my two cents... sounds like the rear battery is either dead / shorted or very discharged. The front battery will run the dash lights and energize the DH starter relay just like normal. If the rear battery is bad, then there will...
It is also just about impossible to find new. Might find a good one in the bone yard. I gave up looking. Perhaps someone knows how to make a mold from one and fab them?
Sorry, was being a bit silly, hence the smiley face...
How was the part described in the auction info? Did it specify 6.2l diesel w/TH400 trans? I know the 700 trans is supposed to bolt up to the 6.2l, but I don't know if there is a difference in the flex plate between the 6.2l and the 5.7l, etc.
A couple of things to see if it is a fuel problem:
Replace the return line from the IP with a clear fuel line, like tygon ( I think that is how its spelled ) then you can see if air is getting in the line.
Crack the line at one of the injectors and crank it over to see if fuel is making it to...
I think he is talking about what is commonly called "turning up the IP". Making a change to the Injection Pump. There are threads about it here, and I think some YT videos as well. I would think you'd want something like a pyrometer to make sure you don't go to far.
*I've never done this, just...
If this is the military CARC paint that is still on the trucks you saw, just remember who painted them... mine clearly has touch-up spots that were done with a brush. Don't expect an Earl Schieb paint job on any MV fresh out of DRMO.
Ran it around town this weekend with the rear seat folded and tilted forward. No change. I should try pulling out the spare tire, though I did put a plastic chain saw blade sheath between the tire and the bed to stop the rubbing noise that can make.
I'm thinking I should get a couple of those...
Installed the headlight relay kit from LMC. Its an ok set given the price. Way cheaper than the ones Summit sells. I'm sure the more expensive one is much better quality, but the budget doesn't stretch that far! I figure I can upgrade to Bosch relays in the future if need be.
One thing I don't...
Oh, one other thing just occurred to me... I think I heard Chief over at Old Grouch surplus say that you could use one of those military surplus immersion oil-fired heaters too. The ones that sit in a 55 gallon drum. No need for power, and is supposed to run on a number of different fuels.
I would think a black drum out in the sun would work pretty well. Could you run it through a water / fuel separator when transferring from one container to the next?
Umm, silly question... why do you want a shift indicator with a broken needle? And if it is really that important, why not just break the one you have and save the trip to the bone yard?
:grin:
There was a post where an SS member bought 3 100 ohm resistors, from a place like Radio Shack, and hooked them up in parallel to get 300 ohms.*
For the whole gauge, I'd check the classifieds here. I have seen them on that auction site every now and then. There is also a vendor on SS, Hillbilly...
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