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Perhaps the resistor on the back of the volt meter is out of spec? I think it is supposed to be 300 ohms, but don't quote me on that...

For the rear seat belts, I try to always buckle them up and pull them snug, that seems to cut down on them hitting the inner fender. No idea on the break cables, but I do have to keep pushing one of the grommets they pass through back in place. Should probably tie-wrap it down, the grommet, not...

Just remove the starter when you get to the hardware store and take it with you to measure the threads for the nut. Then you'll only have to go under the truck twice! Oh, don't forget to disconnect the batteries first! :-P

This is normal on the CUCVs. Nothing to see here, move along...

Mine has an horrendous squeal / squeak / rattle that I think is coming from the tailgate. I'm guessing it is due to a combination of worn out weatherstrips and worn / out of adjustment latches. I did find that it is missing the two underneath bolts and one side rail bolt for the top, but I can't...

I believe he is talking about the removable top on the "bed" of the M1009. Without knowing how big the hole is, perhaps this thread has one answer: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/51225-cucv-gun-trucks.html

I have not done this yet, but my plan is to grind off the head of the spinning bolt, and then grind off the shoulder of the riv nut, then push it through the hole. Once cleaned up, new riv nuts will go in.

The STE/ICE port has a connection to the tach output of GEN1, passed through a tach buffer. There is at least one SS member who was able to find a tach that would run off that signal.

If you can find a tach that works off the signal from the alt, then yes. There have been a thread or three on SS where members have been able to find a tach that will work with that as the signal. It is on my list of things to do one of these days when money grows on trees. ;)

Can't tell for sure, but I'm guessing it is for the tach signal to the tach buffer and diagnostic port.

Yes, it is hot all the time, assuming it is still connected. It is wired directly to the 24v buss bars under the hood. My '09 didn't have the buss bars under the radio tray in the back, the cable just ended in what I assume is a connector for the radios. The end of the cable under the hood on my...

You should be able to go to any trailer shop, online places have them, and get the standard civy vehicle side trailer harness that plugs into the existing factory plug along the frame rail. No cutting, splicing or adapter making required. Something like this: 1984 Chevrolet C/K Series Pickup...

The HMMWV IP solenoids are 24v, so won't work in the CUCV.

Doesn't the HMMWV use a serpentine belt system? I suppose you could change the pulley. I wouldn't make it harder than it needs to be. Warthog had a good suggestion on an alt that should be pretty easy to get, perhaps easier than looking for a good surplus HMMWV alt. Probably cheaper too. Just...

With the key off, there should be no voltage on the pink wire at the IP. If there is, then you have a wiring / ignition switch problem. My understanding is that the IP solenoid can be replaced fairly easily. Some people on this site have put 6.5L HUMMWV engines in their CUCVs and just replace...

Just an FYI - the CUCVs provide 12v to the trailer plug, not 24v like most other military vehicles. May I ask how much the trailer cost you? Do you have the bows and cover?

Should be... like anything else on these trucks, soak the bolts in penetrating oil for a few days. The only problem I had was with the tapered bolt on one end required heat to get it out. I put in one from the Rancho 5000 line, but many here seem to prefer the Monroe stabilizer.

Um, wow! :shock: As long as he doesn't mind, I think I'll just keep admiring Stalwart's avatar...

What would you expect to pay for one? Either refurbished or DIY? Shipping costs? government hassles?

My guess would be during the pinup photo shoot! :-o