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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but if the M1009 still has the stock wiring configuration for the 12v / 24v systems, then the passenger-side alt MUST be isolated from ground!
Search is your friend. There are a few threads on this subject. There is even an antenna base / mast combo that does not require any cutting, and fits the CUCV antenna mount without any adapters needed.
I love having the TM's in PDF format. I would also like to have them in printed form, as I feel something is lost in the experience between reading / searching a hard copy versus the electronic versions. Besides, I don't like taking my computer into the "library". :-D
Mine has been starting fine on 6 working GPs. A bit rough at first when cold, but she always starts on the first go-round. Though I'm in SoCal, so cold is a relative term. I do use the half-pedal for the fast idle on the colder days.
I've seen that in the LMC catalog... how does it mount? Not really interested in putting holes in if I don't have to. I've been looking at the shelf LMC has that uses the sun visors mounts as attachment points. Don't suppose anyone has experience with that one?
Your plan looks good to me, though I would do your Phase 2 first. And as a side note, the resistor bank on the firewall is supplied with 24v in the stock configuration, not 12v. The thread / post you linked to has the info you need for the 12v bypass.
As for your questions, I can only say that...
LEDs, or Light Emitting Diodes are, well... diodes... they only conduct in one direction. So, try reversing your probes to change the bias on the diode, and you should get a reading.
There has also been talk here of a directive from the military stating NOT to tow the M416 as you can't see it when you back up. I have not seen this directive, but if someone has it, please post it!
As for me, I've decided to get an M101A2 for use with my M1009, and I'll just have to be...
Strange... I took my resistors out, and my truck still runs just fine... must be magic.
The resistors are only used by the GP system, nothing else on the truck runs through those resistors.
This has been covered many, many, many times here.
There are plenty of posts on how to do the GP push button conversion / adaptation. Your situation should be much simpler, just needing to wire the button to control the GP relay.
As for why you'd want to add the GP controller stuff, its all personal preference / choice. Mine works, and I'm...
Ouch! I've seen complete GP system harnesses on one of those auction sites recently. There are probably members here that have, or can get, them in the classifieds section.
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