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I was just watching a video on a guy who did a 2WD 6L90E to NP208 transfer case. The output shaft on the 2WD 6L90E was larger in diameter and 36 spline, versus the CUCV NP208 32 spline. He had machine shop reduce the diameter and cut 32 splines. I am not sure if this is an issue with a 4WD...

I have been researching 6L80E swaps as well and I think the biggest problem I run into is, finding a transfer case that is a passenger side drop, that will mate up to the trans. Info has been hit and miss on that. Since GM came out with that trans model, all transfer cases were driver side...

I put on the PBD kit and had the stock radiator re-cored. Runs nice and cool but I haven't put many miles on it.

My guess, you wouldn't need to plumb a filler neck for the rear tank. If you use your side tank(s) to transfer fuel into the rear one, you can keep the stock fill on the driver side and just fill up that tank, after you transfer fuel to the rear tank. Not a bad idea.... That might solve my...

I gutted mine but that was because I wanted to do a roof raise and needed access to the frame area. If I wasn't doing that, I am not sure I would have pulled the walls. Unless you have had issues with rats/mice, the stock insulation is fairly good. Here is what it looks like.

This is a GV unit I put in (mine is a fixed yoke setup but most are slip yoke). This is what you are looking for, behind the transfer case.

There is no trailer made that is just going to "bolt up" to the M1010 box. Closest would be to get a Chevy Squarebody longbed frame, then modify it into a trailer. At that point you can mount it to the frame just like the M1010 would have. Outside of that, you're going to have to build most...

Yeah, the deep mark is 0 timing. Moving one way or the other of that mark advances or retards the pump timing. I think most pics I have seen show the secondary mark advanced to the driver side. I believe the factory makes the second mark across the mount and pump once they get it set, so it...

Those are indicator light made by K4 Switches. They were really popular in the offroad/Baja bug world. Here is a link to one vendor (the pic is the same, so you have to read what the description is) https://dansperformanceparts.com/brand/k4-switches/?filter_indicator-type=legend

This is what I did for my M1010, since it had the panel for the stock 24v voltage gauge (which once I convert over to 12v, I will replace that gauge with a trans temp gauge). My speedo has indicators for turn signals and high beam, so I didn't have to deal with those from the factory dash stuff.

There is no pigtail for the factory harness. You'll have to cut the plug and wire up what you need. My Speedhut gauges all have their own dedicated wiring so the factory wiring was for turn signals, 4WD, low coolant, etc. I got a plug setup from Amazon that allowed me to hook up these factory...

Yes I am running 255/85-16 Toyo Open Country MT's. I had them on stock rims originally but found one wheel was bent. I picked up a set of aluminum wheels (from an pre 2000 Ford) and they fit fine. They are 16x7 versus the stock 16x6.5 wheel No rubbing or issues. Stock wheel Ford wheels

Nope, there was no difference in the engines/IP/Tuning of an M1010 and any other CUCV's. They are all interchangeable, outside of the alternator and A/C brackets. That said, you can adjust the IP timing (the marks on the top of the pump, near where it mounts to the engine cover) which can add...

Okay, I was under the idea this was a CUCV, so I knew they were all mechanical.

I used nothing from the original wiring. Everything is from Speedhut. My Speedo is the GPS unit, so I didn't require a sender but I have used the standard sender from Speedhut, I am not even sure in your pic (the one showing the resistor), what that module is or why any of the Speedhut gauges...

Do a search here for the "Plan B" mod for M1010's. It uses two 12v alts that fit the factory mounts. You can wire them so you still get the 24v like stock. That is how mine is currently setup.

Yeah, I did that and cut down the bezel on the small gauges, to I could mount them and the pointed towards you, like factory gauges. I used the 4" gauges for speedo and tach and didn't have to grind anything, as they recessed in like stock.

This would be the controller I would buy, if/when I do a swap. Seems to be one of the better ones out there. https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml

On my first M1010 I did the ORD shackle flip and it worked great and doesn't change the load rating. I believe it was the 2.5" version. I think they also offer a 4" version.

Most gauges are using specific range senders. In almost all cases, when you buy a gauge, it will come with the appropriate sending unit.