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Before you tear into the engine, I suggest you remove the belts to eliminate the accessories as a source of the noise, and carefully inspect the harmonic balancer for rubber degradation. Check the torque converter bolts for tightness and flex plate for cracks.

All 3 lever light switches have a self resetting circuit breaker inside. Sounds like you have a short to ground in a harness somewhere. Did a critter dine on your wires somewhere up underneath? You will need to trace out the circuits looking for sins.

Y'all may not believe me but that aluminum alloy is un-straighten-able.

Possibly someone used jumper cables and hooked the negative cable to the chassis rather than the battery, which caused high amps to flow through the light gauge wires.

Ugh. 3 ways. Replace floor by removing 1000 rivets. Swap body with someone “parting out” a truck. Plate over it with aluminum plate or the GMV WB3 floor material. (RWH might have this on a salvage truck)

Before you condemn the TCM, it is possible that somewhere in the harness, one of the two wires going to the solenoid have chafed against a chassis ground point, which is telling the TCM during it's self check "whoa, ohms here are not right, throw code". We are suggesting you check for this...

Those manual shift kits are not a great idea. Word is they slam shift hard which might be fine for drag racing but not normal driving. What codes are you getting now that it won't shift out of 2? You have not told us the results of checking for continuity between the pressure control...

That switch has been the same since it's introduction in 1950, still being made now by various mfgrs. With a multimeter you can verify continuity between pins as you move the selectors. Other than that it is not exactly serviceable. DC Electronics is not one of the better mfgrs of it.

Sounds like limp mode now. TCM very unhappy about something. I take it you are working with Supplement 7?

Does pin j or k have a short to ground?

while cleaning the battery box I found .. | SteelSoldiers

Civilian trucks that uncle bought do not have M numbers for the most part. I think your axle is made by Coleman if it has a hemispheric hub appearance.

Great idea!!! BatteryMINDer 2012-AGM for agms, BatteryMINDer 12117 for old school, charge each 12 volt pair separate. Been running these for 10 + years.

I had bees in the bellhousing of a WWII TD-18 bulldozer. I too didn't want to kill them. What caused them to pack up and leave was me setting up a water spray on the opening to the colony, which was an inspection cover on the bellhousing. I had to leave it spraying for days. Very nice...

I would stay with 55 lbs unless you have 5 tons in the bed. 70 psi is to minimize sidewall flex at max GVW.

The dash data plate lists the GVW if I remember correctly. But no plates listed all the comprehensive dimensions like on the M38 plate.

The David Doyle article in Military Vehicle Magazine that explains decoding the VIN is copyrighted and not available on the internet.

By the USA number embedded in the VIN, it’s a 1971. AMGeneral was busy building 936s in the 80s.

Do you need high horsepower? The transfer PTO might be an option.

How is the cable lubed? Ancient sticky grease won’t work.