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I've run my cab heater for as much as 30 min without having any affect on cranking amps. I have wondered how long both can be run before it would have an affect. It all depends on the outside temps I guess.

it works like a champ. I just found the oil pan shroud too so now I have it all. :)

cabs are easy to find. replace the cab and move on

Pax side only on my 6.2. The turbo motors have several more around the back.

I have the 24 bolt with bf's and I love them. They wear fast though. 10k miles and I can tell already.

yes they are std. lots of them don't get reinstalled bc they are a PITA to get on once the motor is in the truck. but yes they are in the 24-p as std equipment.

I owned that trailer for a number of years. All you will need are caging bolts and you can pull it without brakes just fine.

the belts are nothing special. just look at the numbers on them and pick your fav reseller.

I did the exact same thing with my level winder about 3 years ago. SECO in augusta,Ga had all the parts I needed. Not cheap but they have them. Mine was missing all the correct shims and bearings and washers. was totally locked up and would not move or rotate.

I can prob do it for some $ to cover costs. pm me if needed.

I think you just need to admit you got in over your head and didn't pay attention to the details of the transaction. Comments like this one have no bearing on the transaction that you had with Fast Track. You asked them to ship and item that was much heavier than you told them it would be...

if you must drive the truck then crack it off the batteries and then just shut off the acc switch. it will continue to run and drive normally. you just won't have some of the gauges on the dash.

as others have said 568 needs to be connected and is in fact the wire we discussed on the phone. that is the wire that tells your alt it's time to start charging.

Junk. The balance will be all off. if it were allowed to run it would soon destroy itself.

good luck. I'm right off I-20 at exit 55 if you need anything.

Ditto, I've done this many many times.

Don't bother with trying to turn it up, just remove the regulator. It's a piece that is not needed and is prone to failure.

They are usually on the firewall.

Baffles are not needed. The new tanks for the A2 trucks and the ones with the parking brake on the rear axles do not have them. If it were me I'd put a new tank in. they are less than $100 and will give you future upgrade possibility. Of course you'd have to upgrade the parking brake to do...

Mine is about 5-10 at idle and 30ish running down the road. a little low IMO but it's still going strong.