Search results

They are more reliable with the turbo IMO. the EGT's are lower and the engine is less prone to low RPM lugging. All the parts needed can be found in a class 8 junk yard and done in an afternoon. the only fabbing that needs to be done is the exhaust pipe and air intake tube from the turbo to...

it's not hard at all. if you can change spark plugs you can do this swap. it really is that easy.

Ran when parked?:mrgreen:

ya it's prob indian head sealer. that stuff dries to a concrete like hardness and takes a chisel to get off but makes a seal like no other.

control box or neutral switch are the likely 2 reasons that will cause a no start.

you really should run that filter inline with your heater core. Thats the only way it's going to see any flow through it.

it would just help in getting it out maybe. shouldn't make any difference though. I've broken several of them off and lost several down into the motor. never had any issue getting them out and never put the piston on TDC.

I can pick it up for you. I've prob done 50 at least. pm me the info and I'll help you out. I've got 1 to go get fri morn.

If you only need an inch or so you can run the new poly bushings and thicker washers that come on the 1151 and newer trucks.

I've never heard of any of the 6.2's being capable of multifuel. I know they will burn it as any diesel will but I've not seen it in the TM's or anything.

There is already another thread on this truck.

well it was worth a shot, some of the new PCB's don't use the temp controller, The one in mine doesn't so I thought you might be lucky too. I guess you need to find the right one for your PCB.

Good idea. I've often wanted a trolley valve on the rear line. I used to tow a 5th wheel dolly behind my truck and it always wanted to lock up the tires on that thing with minimal effort. A trolley valve would have been nice.

Looks good ted, keep up the good work. did you keep the air lines behind the cab to be used in the bed? that might be useful for something.

maybe 10ft lbs. the screw is not what seals it in the block. the oring does that. the screw simply spreads the butterfly on the back to keep it snug to the block.

might be. have you tried unplugging the temp sensor and seeing what happens?

put a socket thats just big enough to fit inside the opening in the block and hit it hard. you can also try heating the block with something, dremel or carbide cutter will get it out but you must be very careful not to nick the block. the heater should have an oring which is more...

if you guys are jonesing for some LED headlights I've got a used set with buckets FS, pm me if interested.

try unplugging the temp sensor. it's not used with the new ones and maybe its causing an error

this is normal. what you are seeing is the after start glow plug cycle.