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Down here in San Diego. Working on my M1010, converting it into a camper. This is my second M1010.

Yeah, idiot lights are exactly that. I lost an engine in my '64 Chevy II wagon because by the time the idiot light came on, it was too late. Rebuilt engine and promptly put full gauges in. Will no longer have an older vehicle without adding high quality gauges. Cheaper than rebuilding an engine.

You definitely get better visability and not completely out of place since many times dually trucks would have those.

Thanks all. I received one.

It's called ssome sheet metal and a welder or find what you need in the junk yard, cut it out and weld it in. I don't think anyone makes those for the square body trucks.

Many times fuel gauge reading incorrectly but the sender ohms out okay can be traced to bad/missing/dirty grounds. Because fuel gauge relies on the resistance, if you have a bad/dirty ground, it will cause more resistance and hence read incorrectly. You should be able to verify the gauge is...

I believe what you are looking for is something like this. https://www.performanceonline.com/Shock-Absorber-Stud-Mount/?keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAiA98TxBRBtEiwAVRLqu4ekDnud2sdMtZ9bQnQq4rb81emw67xxTAiG4ZoIYHF0Zm1AqaPQiBoCwFQQAvD_BwE Not sure if this is the right size for the CUCV/K30 trucks but...

Yeah, agree. Most cars/trucks that have a combo running light and turn/brake light use dual element bulbs. One element is a lower wattage (for the running lights) and the higher wattage one for the turn and/or brake light. What could be happening is because the LED doesn't have enough...

It is possible.

Damn! I have never wanted an engine more then I would love to have that one. One sexy beast! Too bad they did such a limited run of these and priced them accordingly....

Make sure you replaced the right flasher. I think there are two, one for the hazard lights and one for the turn signals. See if your hazard lights flash.

I replied to your PM. Thanks!!!!

Hi all, I am working on my custom gauge panel and it would be really helpful if I can get the following piece from someone who has a damaged/cracked bezel. The M1010 I have has an extra hole for the rear door light so I need one from an M1008 or M1009 or model that just has the single gauge in...

If you remove the balancer, replace the seal. That is the timing cover/balancer seal and that can be swapped without removing the cover. Use a seal puller to remove and I used my balancer installer to install, using a piece of plastic tubing and metal plate with a hole drilled in it. Oh, FYI...

I would HIGHLY recommend replacing your balancer, since these fail not just from miles but due to age. Many times you cannot see an issue until you have it off. Here was mine, that I just replaced, that had less than 15,000 miles but is the original '84 unit. See the area in the blue circle...

Spent time yesterday modifying the alternator adjusting bracket, since the "Plan B" alts are shaped a little different than factory. You could not rotate them all the way inwards, which made trying to get a belt that was short enough to not max out the adjustment but still be able to go over...

When I had the new wheels installed I took a cleaning die with me and a cordless impact/socket. After they got all of the original, crappy lug nuts off, I ran my cleaning die (which does not remove metal, only cleans the threads) on every stud. It made it easy to install all the new lug nut...

No, lug nuts don't self tighten. My guess is the shop used an impact and just hammered them tight. Either lazy or didn't have a correct torque wrench. Overnighting can stretch the threads or fatigue the studs. I ended up replacing all of the lug nuts because a number of them felt tight. New...

Here you go, https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/j-hook-windshield-wiper-arm-conversion.192221/