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Do you own tools....... lots of tools, and know how to use them???????

I think 75C is like in the mid 100s or so. I wouldn't worry about the diffs until you see 250 deg. or more. Most here would never work one hard enough to get them that warm. Just my 2 cents.

Yes

A. A length of 2x4 or 4x4 steel tubing from side to side might allow you to move your balance point to a better position. For what its worth. B. Care to elaborate on the make and model of your lift..... overhead space...etc. My birthday is coming up and I need a hint for my wife.

I AM AMAZED I wish you were my neighbor! You are an engineer .....right?

If its sucking air at the fuel filter you have a clogged filter (maybe) or the tank sock is plugged (probably). You did have a look in the tank, right???

Look at the parts list for the tube placement. Mine went in a little high and dropped down in front of the fan....... the studs on the radiator slipped in under the cushions on the lift brackets. If I understand whats going on here????

MONEY TALKS and walks to the front of the line.

Your fuel leak from the top area of the tank may not be the gasket, might be the vent tube ....three or four of them. Clean and watch them closely. Round thing with red wire is the fuel gauge sender, pull that and you can get a decent look into the tank. .....Drive shaft is easy, the sender...

Before proceeding any further I would run a compression check on this one before wasting any more time....... My two cents.....

6.5 NA engines have a lug on the back side of the harmonic damper that a 1 inch wrench fits perfect.

Never had to...... we have "cooled " the input yoke though to get the speedy-sleeve on. Involved a 3000 gal. tank of CO2, a 8 ft. wand and a cardboard box. I thought it a little munch to try and explain here though. Worked for us though and did not have to wait all night.

CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN..... carefully tap into place with a plastic mallet(hammer). If I remember there is a lip on the seal that ends up flush when its seated. A block of wood will work BUT it has to be started evenly first. These are usually not real tight........... for whats it worth.

I eyeballed my 1123 and it looks like the drive shaft will have to be moved aside, looks like the carrier bearing will have to removed also, big nut off, pull yoke out, seal out, clean, replace seal...... their is a TM on this that spells it all out..... too busy to read today, but looks...

The larger round end of the hose is a hydraulic disconnect fitting. Remove, clean, hope....

Perfect job for a SPEEDY -SLEEVE and a new seal of course. Or just a new seal if the yoke is in good shape. You own an impact wrench, right? There is probably north of 150 ft. lbs on the pinion nut.

You are describing this as leaking from the top, do you mean the front.... there is a bolt that holds the fitting on the front of the fan hub. I am surprised they all don't leak here. There is a bolt and D shaped washer that holds it on. I believe it has pressure on the back side of the bolt but...

Red diesel is off road fuel, no taxes..... just replaced the oring and dust seal in the front of my fan clutch........ try tightening the 1/2 nut on the front if you can get an arm in..... an extra elbow helps....... and it will not turn much, just snug it up and see if that helps. Pull the fuel...

Somewhere lost in the back corner of my head I seem to remember a post or info on making your own...... just adding the key cylinder and arm maybe??? I have a guess that might be right down your alley. Hope this helps.

YOU OWN TOOLS!!! Way ahead of some that have bought these. There are some great amateur wrench spinners and a couple of masters on here, paying attention to them will serve you well. (Saves some money on silly stuff) If you are new to diesels there are a couple of minor things mostly fuel...