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If you go the gas route you're going to have to do a lot of rewiring in order to convert the truck to 12V, unless you can find the dual alternator brackets. Check ambulances.

You need to look for annealed wire. It's soft which lets it twist without springing back. It's typically stainless steel or Monel (if you expect any salt exposure).

In my experience, rolling on the starter won't bend a rod. I'm sure it can but this has not been my experience. If it rotated at all it probably was the hydrolock that stopped it. Rusty cylinders seize solid. Does the engine have fuel passages in the head casting? If this is the case it's...

Make sure you use a shear stable grease for the pilot bearing. Lithium grease separates too easily from centrifugal forces leaving behind only the thickener.

The wet stacking bit is backwards. Operating engines at high idle causes wet stacking. Constant speed engines operating at light loads are very prone.

The 6.5 engines are still available and are a direct bolt in. Any Chevy V8 will nearly bolt in. See if you can find one with an accessory rack that supports dual alternators.

The scenario described above, it can only happen if someone wires 12v loads into the rear battery. If your truck is stock you're safe braking the front negative.

There is only one ground and that is the negative terminal on the front battery.

I don't know but if you have a CUCV it is a 1984 model truck.

It would probably be wise to start with something like this. The factory manual pedals have brackets to reinforce the firewall...

What does it take to get started again? Cracking injectors? Does it have a new lift pump? Did you get the right one? Two come up for the 6.2/6.5 but only one works. There should be no spring visible under the pump arm.

The only difference between the 6.5 and 6.2 damper is the length of the shaft. You can use the 6.5 damper on your 6.2 and it will work with your pulley provided you get the spacer. You can order the 6.5 fluidamper and spacer together from fluidamper. Dayco also sells a premium damper that is...

There is a other post going around here right now that shows the DB2 pump revs up right before it shuts down from lack of fuel. Fast idle is controller by an external solenoid and temp switch on the passenger side cylinder head. Are these active or not?

That seal should leak out, not in. That's a Viton seal. It's the good stuff and should last 40+ years. If it's bad so is every other piece of rubber in the system. There is one specific piece that can't be made from Viton and has a short life compared to the injection pump and that is the lift...

Put it on the negative. It's the only common terminal.

Not vehicle specific but I always do the filters first on cold engines, then the pan. Much less mess that way.

You can avoid the "hot" part of the oil change by not warming up the engine before doing the change.

If it has a John Deere 6068 or 6090 engine they are light years ahead of anything Caterpillar had to offer.

Use this as a reference: Bottom end noises (crankshaft speed) - Top end noises (1/2 crankshaft speed) -

You have a misfire. These engines are normally very smooth at idle, you're is shaking. The frequency is wrong to be a rod knock, it's too slow. I think you'll find your problem is under a valve cover. You can crack injector lines to identify the suspect cylinder. In this case you should see no...