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You only need the left hand bit if the bolt is in a through hole where the opposite side is unaccessible. The left hand bit prevents the bolt from being run through the hole and into that place you won't be able to get it out of. An example would be a cylinder head bolt. Using a standard bit...

The SAE 30R9 and 30R10 are also acceptable for the IP return as they are high temp rated. 30R9 has a Viton liner and CPE jacket. I believe 30R10 is Viton in and out.

Heck no. Lock washers are bunk. To elaborate, split lock washers in particular provide no locking effect and add the risk of the washer breaking and coming out from under the head of the bolt. All forms of lock washers have openings that allow moisture under the head of the bolt which causes...

The broken part of the bolt is loose. If you've got a hot glue gun or some super glue you could glue a dowel or rod to the end of the bolt and unthread it.

I think 5 feet did it but I don't recall. I would also get the 1/4 inch hose out of the injection pump in Viton as well. Fuel is hot there too. Make sure you get the thick walled tubing.

Does that matter? The alternator is usually connected directly to the battery so any connection to the alternator is the same as a connection to the battery once wire gauge is factored.

The fuel injectors likely have metric barbs on them but I promise the 1/8 tubing fits well. I have used the 1/8 for years and I don't use any clamps on the tubes. I suggest the McMaster route because you're guaranteed to get Viton tubing. You won't know what you're getting elsewhere.

Red oxide is a colloquialism for an alkyd type maintenance primer. They are solvent born which helps when painting poorly degreased surfaces. They don't really have any performance advantages beyond that. When I hear etching primer I feel those have been obsolete since the late 1970's. Zinc...

I went through this with a Blue Sea Battery charger recently. It charged the batteries just fine but popped the internal fuse when I tried to start the engine. The charger tried to drive the starter. I contacted Blue Sea and they explained that shouldn't have happened and there was an updated...

The serrated grooves are not unlike a chip as metal is turned from a lathe. Either something really bad happened or this is debris left over from manufacturing. If the engine runs without unusual noise and full oil pressure I would guess the latter.

If you don't have any bare metal a primer isn't really necessary. If you have a little bare metal go ahead and use the red oxide for spot repairs. If you have a lot of bare metal you'll want to use a zinc primer for spot repairs and an epoxy primer to cover everything.

Pull the injectors, put the piston at top dead center, tap the glow plug into the pre-chamber, grab with pliers.

I note on internal fuses, inverters like this are usually current limited and aren't capable of blowing their internal fuse. The internal fuse is there to disable the inverter in the event of a hardware failure such as a shorted transistor.

There is nothing special about the Lucas Red N Tacky grease. Interestingly, Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty is the better grease for wheel bearings. It's not necessarily compatible with lithium greases so it would be best to start with a clean pack.

383 is an obsolete designation. Federal Spec 595C describes colors for many things including military vehicles. The green used for 1980's + military vehicles is FS 34094. My local paint store can mix the color directly from the 39094 number if you tell them to search under "US Government" as the...

Google "roll and tip". It's a brushing technique where you apply the paint with a roller and then knock the orange peel off with a brush. You'll have to experiment to get it dialed in.

The plugs on the 6.2 are 5/16". Get a piece of key stock from the hardware store before you damage the plug.

I had the opportunity(?) to cut open a week 8D battery. I found the plates bad mostly broken apart and laying in the bottom of the battery. I don't think a charger can fix this.

It is my understanding that synthetic oils don't have the aromatic hydrocarbon content of conventional. Conventional oils cause buna-n rubbers to swell which eventually leads to them hardening and then leak. If your leaks start after switching to synthetics it's because the damage has already...

The rule of thumb when using synthetics in gearboxes is that you can drop a viscosity range without sacrificing protection vs a conventional. The lower friction and whatever are benefits though they're barely noticeable. I like synthetics because seals last longer with synthetics.