Search results

Got it. I do remember that vaguely from the manuals. But what I still don't understand is if those are all disconnected how does the outside air get in there?? Are there gaps in the firewall that would allow for that? Can that panel be removed without removing the windshield, ie the louvered...

I have the new plenum from the A2 trucks but also the older built in plenus with the cutouts along the windshield. Don't understand what that's attached to and how the air is getting into it.

Closed. Assuming thats the round screen that turns to close. But that isn't connected to the vents/plenum along the windshield that's built into the dash.

Bump

RWH will the 'non' rcsk18330 pumps (105/120 bar) work to power trucks with MM hydraulic winch?? Do they have enough pressure?

Here is an interesting description of temperature induced pressure cycling. See link to full PDF. https://www.gore.com/sites/default/files/2016-04/PTV-TechInfo-Temperature-Cycling-US.pdf The Problem Fluctuations in temperature create failures in electronic devices due to pressure...

I was thinking something with a threaded cap. About 1-3 inches around. Something you could then cap off similar to the diagnostic port on the OEM boxes but along the bottom of the box. Could also act as an inspection port to look up in there.

Don't want to argue risks benefits of OEM boxes versus aftermarket. I have both AND a spare. Noticed reading about the topic corrosion within the boxes leading to the failures (albeit rare). The boxes themselves seem well built and well sealed with most likely water entry points being at 'top'...

Sorry don't have any experience but I have a set I never used I was thinking of selling. PM me if interested. I can send pics if that's helpful for you or others thinking of getting these gauges.

As an aside and something to consider.......I've seen the fording exhaust stack can spew out indelible diesel exhaust fluid that essentially stains everything it contacts pretty badly. Including the truck itself. Think of an exhaust tattoo lol. So if you are parked next to other vehicles, or...

In your diagram you can wire it so you cut off the 'green' and leave the "blue" alone or as Mogman pointed out do it the opposite way. That effectively does the same thing assuming you cut off both switches. I like doing it my way by cutting off the interconnect between the batteries in case I...

Great information. Thank you for taking the time to post it up. One question, why the AC

My M998 truck has OEM AC system from more recent truck installed which includes heat. The heat blows well including on the defrost setting on the windscreen through the new plenum. But when the truck is traveling at speed I can feel very cold air getting through the original vents right next...

Regardless if you switch to 200A or stay 400A.......from what I've learned you want to keep the 'clutch' style pulley. My understanding is this type of pulley protects the generator/alternator during shutdown as it does it gradually rather than suddenly with a conventional pulley...

See this thread re. 348C. Looks like it's not used. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/what-is-wire-348c-on-the-wiring-harness.205808/ P41 looks 'aftermarket'. I don't have anything on my truck with stickers like that on wiring. What do those 'P' labeled wire go to??

Can you explain? Is the compressor powerful enough to run two evaporators/condensors? My understanding is it has to do with the power of the compressor and what it is spec'd to be able to do. Otherwise it won't be enough to blow cold enough and also runs risk of not pushing oil enough without...

I like it in the front. My wife likes it in the rear. Go figure.

To add AC to the rear you would need a separate evaporator and you can't just split that off the front AC system. The front evaporator is sized/configured for the condenser and AC compressor. You would need an additional condenser and way to run a compressor. I'm finishing a project on a 70's...

1. Does anyone make a stainless steel air valve? Non CTIS or CTIS? 2. Does anyone make a converter/cap that goes over the CTIS connector to make it a schrader valve?