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I love my 004. Things a workhorse. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Only place I can think for that is ebay. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Picture is worth 1000 words Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Why not 9 phase? (Yes I know its not a thing) Photo is a glimpse of the stupidity I deal with at work. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Nice work. I would also be interested (after i use up my stock of filters) Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

You can use 2 legs (208 is usually fine for 240 loads) and wire a light or heater to the 3rd leg (few hundred watts is better than nothing). The first one I got was a 004, which is on the big side for my application, but like you it came down to what was available and i didnt have to drive...

Youd have to get them to sync at the right time. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Couldnt tell you how they are bonded, never opened one. Their predecessors (00 series) requires slight changes to the controls. The 00xs are fairly dumb on the controls so they dont fuss much. Transformer, it would probably be easiest to set the generator to 416 volt and get a stepdown...

Back in the day, I used to race stockcars and gokarts, on the karts we had a head temperature sensor that was held in place by the spark plug, you could use one of these sensors under a glow plug(end of the day its a simple thermocouple) . They used to sell the sensors separately from the tach...

I would attach it to the cylinder head. You could also just go off of timing, for example 30 sec preheat, if it fails to start go for a longer preheat. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Another thing to consider, if you manage to rework the head, you need to see what the control system will do with a configuration it was never designed to work with. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Anything is possible with enough effort. The head does have t10 t11 and t12 internally bonded, I imagine it wouldnt be too difficult to rework them (we did this at work with another head that was improperly tapped when rewound). It all comes down to your skill level and the effort you want to...

I wonder if the governor is sluggish or if its in the IP. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Memory isnt what it used to be, but i seem to recall something in a TM about disconnecting the battery if it isnt going to be run in a week. I could be wrong though. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

The way the unit is wired yes. There are a few work arounds, Add an aux pressure switch (though you need one that has a similar trip point) add a blocking diode to prevent the power backflow to the oil switch, or add a normally closed relay contact to do the same (closed when not cranking...

Keep in mind when cranking both sides of the low oil pressure switch have +24 on them (one side from s1pin 14 through k1 the other from s1pin 28 so your controller wont know that the low oil cutoff has been closed until the start command has cleared.

A 5 amp imbalance is not the worst I have seen, if you really wanted to you could move some loads around to improve. as for the fuse a good spike is the likely cause, and yes, slow blow would help prevent surge trips.

I automated a 004 with a PLC a year ago. I cant imagine a 003 being much harder

I would keep the battery disconnected Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Ill have to dig into it, It will work, it just takes a few seconds to get to voltage.