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My friends 005 does the same thing, have to hold the flash a few seconds longer to get the field going

You will have continuity from L1 2 or 3 to L0. Big one is L0 to ground Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Check your field wiring. Behind the control panel by the AVR is a terminal block, when in start do you get 24 volt? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

When you start it, hold the start switch up, do you see voltage? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Usually on generator people don't cross with worrying about RPM frequency is the thing you need to watch. frequency and RPM are directly related to each other Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Deoxit is a magical thing that works wonders. as for the video I usually see people post to youtube and link

It seems that way, but what that does is establish l3 as the ground reference point (same how L0 is the normal reference point). Trick is not having another refrence point. Look up a corner grounded delta transformer, That will help shed some light on the subject.

If it were me, I would start by breaking the neutral ground bond and checking the resistance between L0 and chassis. It should show very high resistance. Then I would ground L3 to chassis through a fuse (5 amp maybe, intent there is to establish L3 as neutral, fuse is there for testing that way...

Then its a transformer or corner grounded. Disclaimer: I have not personally performed this on this model of generator, I have done this on transformers and 1 commercial set. Attempt this at your own risk and use extreme care. If the reference to ground is completely isolated, (you need to be...

You will be using l3 as your "neutral" (neutral as the load sees it) your ground is only there for safety (it shouldn't see current unless there is a problem) the only difference is your faked neutral is not coupled to chassis. The only other thing you can do (without a transformer) would be...

Easy peasy, leave the bond alone. Wire between l1 and l3, the load will see 240 even though its 2 legs of 120. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Complex setup, but it serves your needs. Looks pretty good, keep in mind a backfeed breaker (breaker feeding the buss) cant rely solely on being a snap in. By code they heed an auxiliary retaining means. simple fix, add a tiewrap around the breaker and the one opposite it.

Ok , so the generator feeds into the double throw, which feeds the house OR the shop interlock? Both of which are switching their respective neutrals?

the important takeaway is making 2 feeds cant be crossed and each live feed is connected to a neutral bond

So the shop panel is only from the generator? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

It looks like you are switching the neutral, if thats the case you may want to rethink that. Because thats where the generator needs to be bonded.

There are 2 real flavors here, you can install a transfer switch before the panel or an interlock in the panel. For the interlock to be an option you need a main breaker in that panel.

The most impressive electrical light show I ever witnessed was when we vaporized the squirrel with 32 kilovolts Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Glad to hear it. Any time ,always happy to help Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Now that I have time to sit and explain as ZZ can be quite confusing: In a ZZ setup All 6 windings are contributing to the load. To simplify things I am going to eliminate the parallel aspect. In the factory wye configuration using 3 windings numbered according to the NEMA standard there are...