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And to clarify my previous comment. I used Prestone coolant flush on the first fill. Drain. Fill with flush and distilled, drive, up to temp, then cool a bit, drain, then repeat one more fill with distilled, drive, drain, and then fill with the coolant. I think it might be a bit obsessive...

Congrats, looks great. The windows look new! And those fiberglass troop seats look straight as an arrow.

Even a thorough drain from beneath the oil cooler will still leave 3 gallons in the block. Fill with water and drain, then repeat. I used distilled water for that reason.

If you have a coolant filter added, make sure you don't get the charged filter by accident, just use the plain Jane one.

Its alive! That ECU looks like an Eaton, double check the tire pressure when it's solid to verify what levels they are set at. Wreckers are special, and those ECU's have the capabilities of being jumpered (in the manual, but I haven't found them) so it would be good to know YOUR pressures at...

Hooked up wrong is possible, we've seen a lot of bad stuff on rebuilds, or mud wasps blocking up vents that made a condition the TM won't cover. it's an in from the supply and out to the wheel valves, really simple. Since the truck is new to you, we need to check and know basics of the truck...

HI Dave, congrats on the big truck. As far as the CTIS, the air pressure seems a bit high, but still tolerable, you might check the governor it might be a bit high. The unit will flash in a mode, then after it reached pressure it will go solid. It's not normal for it to go 20-25 min, nor no...

They are bent just enough, where it can unlatch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both of my latches on my M939 battery box were bent so it won't latch anymore. They are really stout, and I can't bend them back with anything I've tried for pliers. I don't really want to drill the pin to remove and put in a vice and beat with a BFH, but I think that might do it. Anyone...

Assuming the truck is a M939, torque is 350-400 lb Once you get the cotter pins out, you're home free. I got two off in a salvage yard in 20 min flat, but couldn't do my own in 3 days and had a truck company do it VERY expensively. The TM is the Field Maintenance guide, #3, WP 0544. I have...

So I got to go see the truck, and sorry to let some people down, but I tried the harness, and it worked perfectly, but I was unable to talk even to the new ECU over J1708 or J1939. Two causes. I screwed up somehow in my code or wiring, or the unit is not capable. I did this all with the...

well, today was test day, and the wife called me into work at a festival. Tomorrow hopefully this will be tested out. I've literally been dreaming about this.

Ok, I soldered up half the connections, isolated the 1708 and 1939 connections, now onto the other side. Also found an older Dana manual that had just 1708, so that at least is encouraging. After the solder up, I have to redo my Arduinos. Probably won't get to the truck to test this...

Which one? Dana? Got a part number?

Sorry peeps, I am back. Work and travel killed this project for a bit. The fuel / air leak was a non issue luckily. I need to get going on the soldering, I have all the right pieces. Motivation is there, but my time dwindled with multiple jobs / businesses. I hope no one is pinning their...

I got these as well. They are good, but with constant on and off at the service and emergency, they will not be the last ones you buy as they state..

Well that's one way, ditch the 569. :driver: Madams, I would check the wiring back to the 12v blower switch. Bust out the multimeter and know for sure, shorting things out is not fun.

Simp, you sure? I don't have my truck near and can't verify tags, so could be barking up the wrong tree, and unless I misunderstood my 2 battery config, the thick wire in my config (pict above) should be the blower, which is on my 2nd battery 12v positive post, that should be 569, so thicker...

The TM doesn't seem to differentiate on gauge that I can find, so no help there. I have a 2 batt config (old pict) and it appears that the thicker gauge is the 12v and thinner is the 24v, however, if I were you I would trace them out, who know what happened to that truck before you got...