Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
New Life Canvas just delivered the new shell casing deflector canvas. Great looking.
Now, where can I come up with the spring or cable to thread through the canvas and into the mount? Any ideas?
With the recent posts on the leaking spin on filter adapters, I began watching my jatonka adapters more closely.
The weather here has gotten down to 9 degrees, which in Texas is unheard of, and we have had snow and ice all week. An honest lawyer cannot make a living if the court house is...
I looked at the oil filter magnet set ups. Expensive! I did the easy thing. I went to Ace Hardware got a couple of big magnets and stuck them on the side of the filters. I have the jatonka spin on filters and I have not cut one open to see the results. But, if magnets help, these will do...
The first thing I did was to use cranetruck's turn signal electrical protector. No more failed flashers!
Then I put on the jatonka spin on adapters, oil first and then the fuel so soon as they were available.
I finished the second deuce lock out hubs this last Fall.
It took a minute to figure out the sequence. But, the reference to the Chapter 3 pics with the lifting device made it clear.
You can observe a lot by watching. I had not seen this before but it is essentially what I did. Took only seconds in the TM. Took me a number of hours to figure it out.
I used one of the Harbor Freight lifts on mine. I did not remove anything, just lifted it about an inch.
The difference makes it possible to do the job on mine. My guess is that not all deuces are exactly the same. I tried to do it as outlined in an article by NickD in MV Magazine a couple...
I replaced mine fairly easily. First do not get in a hurry. Second loosen the front motor mounts and lift the engine an inch or so. then you take it apart in the truck easily. Trust me, you do not have to move the engine to the side and spend a lot of time doing that.
All but the final bolt...
The price for the hood handle is very good. I had four made, with the reinforcement plates, at a local shop. They cost $20 per.
This is a very good deal for all concerned.
And, it sure makes handling the hood easier.
The grounds on the tail lights are not the grounds on the flasher. They are on the bolts holding the tail lights on the truck. They have outside/inside star washers. I know this sounds dumb but cranetruck is the master of this stuff and taught me all I know of it. Thanks again cranetruck.
With all of that done, it can still be the grounds at the lights themselves. Nothing like intermittent grounds to make things work at times and not work at others.
I would start with the brake lights. Clean the grounds at the rear. Simple to do. Replace the lock washers if they are rusted. Grainger has the inside/outside star washers if they need replacing.
Then look at the wiring. Test the brake light switch. Simple to do. But, it can make you insane.
We have been inside for two days wondering if the world is at end with about the same amount of snow on the ground here. And, you guys are playing in it!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!