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Glad all the kits are working for you guys and thanks for the write ups!

Wait, you could try to use a rivnut tool to reseat the rivnut again! It is worth a try.

This sounds like classic tight pedal to me. The pedal needs free play before it engages the Master so that as the fluid heats there is room for the expansion. The pedal free play is what allows for expansion without the brakes binding up. If the brakes were weak or had contaminated fluid...

You might have to drill it out and put in a new nutsert.

I will post pics of my set-up when I get to it on the current truck I am working on. Should be next month.

Well I guess no pics of my arsenal mounted up....

If originality is not an issue I use dome head allens than are nearly flat and not only look good but give you lots of clearance. I have found you can tighten up the hinges to get a better seal on the doors with these too.

It ties into the coolant overflow fitting in the crossover pipe. Something you dont have.

Greg, Your setup is closer to the civilian engines and is in the works. There is a way to do it but I have not made it a bolt on yet.

Bronco74, your mailbox is full cant reply to you. Send me another message when you have cleared it.

I will PM you with info. Thanks!

Guys I am getting close to selling out on the next batch. If anybody wants one here, I prefer to sell direct than going through EBAY. Thanks!

Good job putting it in right away! Glad you like the kit.

Yes, they would me visually identical with three major differences. One, you would not need a hard top windshield, two I would offer rear window options (I might even make a sliding door in the back) and three the thing would NOT leak. :)

I would need to know more details but the ones pictured are NOT structural as there is nothing to the front hinge mounts. If they are like that and using 1" CRS I would think $1K to $1.5K would do it. To get to the $500 range they would have to be on a production line likely in China.

I had a set of hard X-doors in bad shape that I cut in half and made a new top piece for them as 1/2 doors. Same idea but solid verses open like pictured. I later fixed the tops and made a set-up where the door tops could be slipped back onto the bottoms to make a full door option. The stock...

Yep, my thoughts exactly. The tops I am talking about are 1/4" aluminum and MIG welded together, no rivets or sheet metal screws. The rear wall is the hard part as it is complex geometry to get everything right. The only way I will do this is with laser cut panels and a full size jig made off...

You can buy a 'universal' Chinese kit on EBAY for $500.....BUT the turbo is wrong and crap, the pipes are wrong, the rest needed to put it in would cost 2X that and it would still be crap. You need a properly matched turbo from a reputable manufacturer. You need proper oil feeds and drains...

I have sold a bunch locally to existing friends and clients. I have also had several sales inquiries from EBAY but slow start. I have enough in sales to proceed. I don't expect to make much when it is all said and done. I have other projects in the works though. I have a dual heat/cool...

Yep, I decided to invest in jigs and assembly tooling so I need to sell a bunch to recoup my investment.